1988 Regal Fiasco Many Sensor & Electrical Problems - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 10-13-2013, 04:12 PM   #41
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if it thinks its in park that could be why it wont idle in gear.
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Old 10-13-2013, 05:14 PM   #42
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I've spent so much on this adventure, I can't stop now. P/N switch goes on the long list.

If I'd bought another car I'd be dealing with worse probably. I know this Buick and the undercarriage is top-notch for 25 years old. After installing hitch & rebuilding the rear suspension (plus buying the mono-spring tool), this was going to be a keeper. The only investment I have in 13 years is the last year or two really (it was a gift). I like the style, so it'* mine now I reckon. Can't complain.
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Old 10-13-2013, 07:19 PM   #43
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I think you're right about a vacuum leak, JW. I've looked for the longest time & found nothing. The cruise light coming on is making me think the problem is servo related giving me two problems in one unit, because it does seem there'* a leak when you punch the throttle; sluggish and a little slow to go back to idle. Man I hope that'* the main performance problem now. I don't think the Gunk carb cleaner is good enough to find small leaks. Time for good ole ether.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:55 AM   #44
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you should be able to test the pnp, if you have the drawings for what wires it is at the pcm. ether could work better, ive heard propane too but i dont trust myself not blowing something up. but it does sound like a vacuum leak for the cruise, because the electronics work and the actuator is vacuum. you could have a leak in the lines to the heater too. you might just cap everything off see what it does. if it runs better connect one thing back at a time till something changes
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Old 10-14-2013, 04:48 PM   #45
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I'm skeered of propane too; it lays near the ground on a windless day.
The next logical step would be what you said about blocking everything
off. The Servo is more complicated than I imagined. There'* a check valve
in the vacuum line BEFORE the Servo too. A large vacuum line goes through
the firewall from the Servo, so blocking it all off will be an immense short-cut.

Through all this I may find out why there'* a noise in the heater/blower motor.
Sounds like a flap is stuck halfway closed. I figure all critical "break-down prone"
parts have been replaced. Troubleshooting BEFORE buying other parts is the game plan now. I mean, no need to call a wrecker for a broken Cruise Control.

Winter is around the corner here. Was hoping to touch-up some rust spots on
a couple vehicles first. The garage is more for storage the last couple years.
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Old 10-14-2013, 09:56 PM   #46
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Thank God, Thank God, Thank God
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:49 PM   #47
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I blocked all vacuum lines and bypassed everything in the cabin, Servo, EGR, even plugged the Brake Booster line; sprayed Carb Cleaner and Brakleen around everywhere. NOTHING. Then pulled the vacuum line from the HVAC/Cruise port on the throttle body and there was no noticeable vacuum from the port but there was vacuum from the line. That'* not right! The line I pulled out was hooked to the MAP sensor and tee-d into the Fuel Pressure Reg and drawing steady vacuum from the neighboring port. The real HVAC line was hooked to one side of the Vapor Canister if I remember right, so what I thought was pressure in the fuel tank must have been vacuum. Wow. I put the Purge Valve back on and hooked everything back up.

Tested on the 4-lane, by the road-side, & in the driveway. These are the things I noticed fixed:

1) Engine starts easy, idles right, doesn't want to die in gear.
2) Idle corrects properly at sudden stops.
3) Tranny shifts smoother.
4) Cruise control works.
5) SES light went out immediately.
6) Primary Cooling Fan come on for some reason?
7) BLM Cell went from the 70'* to 125 - rich condition gone - fuel savings returns!
Automotive excitement returns!

Erased codes before test driving. Checked afterwards and still have codes for low signal on the TPS and MAP. I couldn't get the SES light to come back on while testing though and engine performs more like normal. Punching the throttle is better, but a tiny, tiny bit slow to come back to idle - could be due to age. I'll have to check the EVAP system closer. Still have to figure out the P/N switch and maybe VSS. The list got shorter anyway.
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Old 10-14-2013, 10:52 PM   #48
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Huh, "8" + ")" must be code for the
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Old 10-15-2013, 07:20 AM   #49
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at least you got part of it figured out. the cooling fan comes on if the temp is above a certain temp to the pcm, or if the a/c/ defroster is on. if neither of those is on some trouble conditions cause the computer to default to on
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Old 10-15-2013, 11:42 AM   #50
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I'd buy you a pop if I could JW. I said the TPS voltage was low, but that was before I erased the codes. Now only the MAP is low. I'll try the new one and see what happens. Hopefully this fiasco will help somebody else persevere through their ordeal.

I haven't heard the cooling fan run for a long time (over a year) and was going to check it, plus the coolant level hasn't gone down in the reservoir like it did. I replaced the relay a couple weeks ago, but haven't driven it much since.

I noticed something weird on the scanner. I thought the CTS wasn't working, but it changes values if I accelerate the engine. It increases like a TPS voltage increases with acceleration only by degrees - not voltage. This scanner just might be peculiar.

I found a wholesale closeout P/N switch at RockAuto for 41.63 USD incl. shipping, so I went ahead and bought it.

The new fuel gauge works now. It seems on a new empty 16 gallon tank, 4 gallons is NOT a quarter tank. I put several gallons above that before the gauge moved off "E". Safety margin? A full tank reads "F". I'll keep an eye on it.

Will be soon checking the instrument panel "no lights" or speedo problem, so I guess this will be like a blog or something.
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