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I just bought a new old stock from an old parts store.
Replaced cam position sensor since I noticed it had a crack in it, still no start and still code 12.
I'm wondering if I possibly have the spark wires wrong?
As far as I can tell from research and Haynes manual, from left to right looking at the engine from the front of the car: 2-4-6 front bank 1-3-5 firewall side.
And ignition is 4-2-6 front and 3-5-1 firewall side.
If anyone can confirm I'd appreciate it.
Side note:
My wife has called 10 shops in town and 1 has said they might have someone who knows something about this car. I found that a little entertaining.
Did you take a look at the cam gear while the CPS is out? The LG3 is notorious for cam gear disintegration (beside the magnet coming off the gear), since they still used a V8 style nylon and pot metal gear until it was reworked into the 3800 V6.
Did you take a look at the cam gear while the CPS is out? The LG3 is notorious for cam gear disintegration (beside the magnet coming off the gear), since they still used a V8 style nylon and pot metal gear until it was reworked into the 3800 V6.
no I didn't. I guess I can take it back out and try to see it. No real good angle to get centered on that hole in the block and see what'* going on.
I didn't get the best look, but it appears that the cam gear nylon teeth are gone.
does anyone have a good resource for step by step replacement instructions? I know how to get the old gears off and install new, I just don't know where the crank and cam need to be for install or if I need to get any specific tools.
Thanks again, you all have been helpful. I appreciate it!
I’m not sure if this will be helpful but I thought I’d post here because I’m curious about what happened with this 87 Century with an engine that cranks but wont run.
I recently had an intermittent crank-no-spark condition. It quickly became worse and the engine would sometimes suddenly stop running. Of course, a friend was telling me to change the ICM but I didn’t want to spend the money until I eliminated the wiring as a potential cause.
So, I focused on the terminals and ignition jumper harness and icm ground, etc. On my car, I can somewhat simply disconnect and pull out the harness that has the crank, icm, and cam connectors. So, I pulled it out and bench tested the wires by putting one of those square headlights on each wire/circuit and wiggling the wires while watching the lamp for flicker/dimming. I also used a multimeter. After the harness wiring checked out, the harness got lots of TLC including some new terminals, shielding, a bit of liquid tape on one wire that had brittle cracking insulation, etc. This bit of work along with a bit of similar testing of the icm circuits on-car basically eliminated the wiring as a potential cause.
The crank-no-spark was eliminated soon thereafter when I replaced the ICM. The ICM had a halfmoon shaped crack in the epoxy/insulation near the connector port. I remember hearing something crack, but I don’t know if it happened before or during the repair process…it probably started when I was manhandling the connector when I was fixing the CAM signal magnet months before. The mess from the original ICM had been making the connector grab and stick to the port on its replacement. So, this recent repair was the second icm replacement in approximately five years.
The ICM had a halfmoon shaped crack in the epoxy/insulation near the connector port. I remember hearing something crack, but I don’t know if it happened before or during the repair process…it probably started when I was manhandling the connector when I was fixing the CAM signal magnet months before. The mess from the original ICM had been making the connector grab and stick to the port on its replacement. So, this recent repair was the second icm replacement in approximately five years.
