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Old 06-05-2010, 10:29 PM   #31
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The pin does not slide thru the bushing. The bushing slides on the pin at the end and is held on by a collar on the pin. With this bushing in place the pin will not reinsert into the bracket. Do these bushings need to be replaced at every brake job? It almost looks like the bushing has swelled causing it not to go in the bracket.
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Old 06-05-2010, 10:57 PM   #32
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Not sure I'm on the same page as you, Here'* the diagram:


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Now the two pins slide thru the left piece of the caliper and into the right piece and then you tightened the pins down, they are threaded. Not sure just what the Bushing you speaking if. I've done my fronts twice without any trouble. The pins just slipped in and threaded.
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Old 06-07-2010, 12:52 AM   #33
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I just did the brakes on mine. Here are pictures of the pins.
They will definitely fit. Try switching holes. It doesn't really matter which pin, which hole.
Just make sure that one pin of each style is on the RH and LH side. It keeps the pins from binding and dragging.

If you reuse the old clips, you really need to clean them up and also the grooves in the brackets. Rust will build up under the clip, and the new pads will end up where the rust is the thickest and drag on the pads.

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Old 06-07-2010, 01:22 AM   #34
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Wow. I just read the other closed thread.

The original development style of the Gen3 brakes was two solid round pins. They added the grooves because the clearance of the pins and the holes were so close that they couldn't insert the pins without trapping and compressing air in the bottom of the holes... the pins couldn't get pushed in all the way, without springing back out. (That'* why the bushing on the other pin has a groove)

Originally both pins were the same diameter. They found that with the tight clearance and the stack-up of all the components, the pins couldn't be perfectly spaced, or perfectly parallel. The pins were actually dragging in the holes, and drag is bad.
If you check the bushing pin, I think you'll see that it is a smaller diameter than the solid pin. Theorectically, only the bushing will slide and contact the hole.

I don't think it really matters which pin goes in the top or bottom. If it was critical, GM would have made it idiot proof using different size holes.
I can't remember which way I went. I'm pretty sure I removed, inspected, and replaced each pin one at a time.
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