NEED HELP! Brake job from hell! - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 05-25-2006, 05:42 PM   #1
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Default NEED HELP! Brake job from hell!

hi evryone. i know i haven't posted for ever but that'* just cause im no post *****!!!!!
Any how. i've been working on my brakes(front one'*). thats done, now i'm stuck with changing my rear wheel cylinder. i just need to know what kind of tool or wrench i need to use to take of the brake line fitting that connects to the wheel cylinder. Or even better a rough instruction on how to change the cylinder.. Guys i'd appreciate it very much if someone can come through for me.

Thanks in advance..


Al
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Old 05-25-2006, 06:01 PM   #2
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For the brake line fitting, use an open end wrench. If it'* rusted, use a vise grip to grab onto the fitting and slowly work it out. If it starts to turn the entire line, just go the other way with the vise grip to break up the rust and not twist the line. Then, to unbolt the wheel cylinder, you'll need a 6 point external torx socket. I know SnapOn carries them; that'* where I got mine from. I'm not sure if CSK or other auto parts stores carry them.

Installation is the reverse of the removal. You may have better luck getting the threads of the brake line fitting started in the new wheel cylinder before bolting it down.

Don't forget to bleed the brakes after removing hydraulic components!

Good luck, any questions, PM me or post here. I've done tons of these.

EDIT: Hell, call me if you want, I have free incoming minutes 651.967.2018
EDIT #2: Don't forget the country code before the phone number... funny canadians and their silly phones
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Old 05-25-2006, 07:23 PM   #3
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An even better tool (and the correct one) is a flare-nut wrench. It'* enclosed on 5 sides of the 6-point wrench.

Here'* a picture of one:
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Old 05-25-2006, 07:59 PM   #4
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hey guys, thnx for ur quick response . just wondering what size the flarenut wrench is because they're so expensive. and could i get away with using a normal socket or open end wrench instead of a 6 point external torx socket?? thnx guys...
Al.
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Old 05-25-2006, 08:05 PM   #5
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You should be able to get the brake line off with a standard open-end wrench.

The two fasteners holding the brake cylinder on the back of the hub are going to require torx sockets. (reverse torx).

You SHOULD be able to spread the shoes at the top in order to free up the cylinder and get it out without removing either the spring or the retainer.
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Old 05-25-2006, 08:05 PM   #6
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I don't if this has been mentioned but if there is a bit of rust I always put some penetrating oil like PB Blaster and let it soak for hours before I try to remove it. As for the size.....I can't remember if it'* 3/8....7/16.....maybe someone can chime in and answer that one...


Good luck.
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Old 05-25-2006, 11:05 PM   #7
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A good soaking with PB Blaster is highly recommended. It'* THAT good!

I let stubborn bolts/nuts sit overnight; haven't had a problem it couldn't tackle yet but I'm working on it I've got to replace the rear springs on my truck. Its a Ford and ,naturally, rusty as h*** under there.
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Old 05-26-2006, 02:56 AM   #8
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i agree with Mark, the correct tool is a flare nut wrench. If you're in a tight spot, a vise grip will work just fine. You cannot use any tool other than a external torx (or reverse torx, or whatever you want to call it) socket to remove the mounting bolts for the wheel cylinder.
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