Lighting discussion
#1
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Thread Starter
Lighting discussion
I didn't want to continue threadjacking JL'* headlight replacement thread, so I figured I'd start a seperate one.
I'm running:
Low beams: HIR-3 (or 9012)
High beams: HIR-1 (or 9011)
Driving: Sylvania H3 100W (I tried many H3 bulbs including Silverstar'* and nothing lasts as long as regular Sylivania bulbs)
Here is a pic with the HIR low beams;
I have redone the ground wiring on my driving lights. The stock wiring was thin, and brittle from the heat. Part of the problem with our driving lights is heat. This heat is because the light housing has no way to dissipate it with the moisture cap on the back. With them on, I average bulb life of about a month. But I leave the moisture caps off. This pushes my average replacement to about 3 months lifespan of each bulb. I know some of you will argue, "but that keeps water out, otherwise you'll short out the circuit and blow bulbs!" Well, I've lived through torrential downpours and 4+ feet of snow this winter and I have not had any problems...
Part of my ground wiring re-do was to re-route the ground wire from exiting the light housing at the moisture cap opening, to it'* own opening that I drilled into the light housing right next to the moisture cap hole. This hole is just large enough to snake the electrical terminal through. This also acts as another vent hole for the heat to dissipate.
Overall, I've increased life of the bulbs, reduced heat in the light housing, which is the source of the problem for us GXP owners, and have a reliable set of driving lights.
I'm running:
Low beams: HIR-3 (or 9012)
High beams: HIR-1 (or 9011)
Driving: Sylvania H3 100W (I tried many H3 bulbs including Silverstar'* and nothing lasts as long as regular Sylivania bulbs)
Here is a pic with the HIR low beams;
I have redone the ground wiring on my driving lights. The stock wiring was thin, and brittle from the heat. Part of the problem with our driving lights is heat. This heat is because the light housing has no way to dissipate it with the moisture cap on the back. With them on, I average bulb life of about a month. But I leave the moisture caps off. This pushes my average replacement to about 3 months lifespan of each bulb. I know some of you will argue, "but that keeps water out, otherwise you'll short out the circuit and blow bulbs!" Well, I've lived through torrential downpours and 4+ feet of snow this winter and I have not had any problems...
Part of my ground wiring re-do was to re-route the ground wire from exiting the light housing at the moisture cap opening, to it'* own opening that I drilled into the light housing right next to the moisture cap hole. This hole is just large enough to snake the electrical terminal through. This also acts as another vent hole for the heat to dissipate.
Overall, I've increased life of the bulbs, reduced heat in the light housing, which is the source of the problem for us GXP owners, and have a reliable set of driving lights.
#3
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Posts like a Corvette
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Location: Alberta, Canada
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The timing of this is funny in that I'm just in the middle of a write-up for the conversion from 9006 to HIR low beams. One thing I noticed about your post is that the 9012 is actually an HIR2 (not HIR3).
#4
I'll be looking forward to seeing your write-up, I've been thinking about making the switch myself...
Always good stuff coming down the pipe with this forum!!! keep it coming.
Always good stuff coming down the pipe with this forum!!! keep it coming.
#5
Administratus Emeritus
Certified Car Nut
Doesnt suprise me the ground wiring is to thin, it seems to be a problem thorughout the car, It seems everything was thinly engineered for things working in "new condition" when parts wear, and weather works at connections, a bit more resistance can be expected. My headligts though, are original, never been touched, and still working fine. 3+ years and counting.
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BusMaster007
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