Nice unit BTW. I couldn't find 12v "amp draw" in Eclipses site specs. But 1000 watt amplifiers typically draw 75 amps@ 14.4V. so @ 1200 watts RMS full volume would be +/- 90 amp draw. I believe the 160 amp fuse they refer to is for inbetween the amp and speakers. Even a 90 amp draw would give you a "light show" with a stock alternator. Alternators only output a fraction of their rated amps at an idle/lower RPM'*. It would help everything out if you had at least two batteries regardless of your alternator choice.

There are 4, 40 amp fuses on the amp. And people have always told me that an extra battery doesnt do anything unless your in park, thats what rockford fosgates website says also. How do you think it would sound if i had a 200 amp alternator and all 0 gauge wire.

if your going to plan on buying aa HO alt i highly suggest DCpower, they have some of thee best CS and their products are thee **** to say the least. they haave em for bonnes for sure and iirc they should have them from 190 amps to 300+, heres the link http://www.dcpowerinc.com/ as soon as i get cash mine will be ordered FTW and any of the knu 0gauge will work for ya no prob and wouldnt go any smaller than 0ga if planning to upgrade alts in the future

You're more than welcome to come down to Downer'* Grove next week to hear what 1600W RMS sounds like in a 15" sub and two 340W RMS (each) stereo amps running with 0/1 Gauge wire for the big 4, and factory 4 gauge for the alternator.

From the battery, one 4 gauge and one 8 gauge wire is run to the amps. No extra battery in the trunk, though I'm very heavily considering it since I do have a spare.

an extra batt is a good option too for sure. it wont "make" more power like an alt but will store extra power for sure. 160 amp worth of fusing would more than likely draw too much for your stock alt but IMHO id do the big 3 first, then add a second batt after that and if voltage drop is still there then a HO alt would be the ticket.

Im on an extremely tight budget, I was just planning on getting the 0 gauge and getting the HO alternator. The 0 gauge will be like 70 bucks and the alternator is 240$, i cant afford all the extra stuff you have to have to hook up an extra battery. Such as a battery isolator and all the extra wire, not to mention the battery itself.

You probably won't need the battery. Just get the wiring set up properly and go from there.

well it might be wanted to add later on but what you said should wor just fine for the power you have. and btw you wouldnt need an isolator. nobody on our team(MNloudest) uses them and one teammate has 13kwatts and a big batt bank of kinetics FTW. iirc they are used for show purposes when the car is shut off but wont do much if anything but cost loot in your daily setup. ill try and dig up a link to explain that if ya want lol. my onboard memory in my head isnt the greatest lol

oh and sorry if i missed but what batt do ya have under hood? if stock you can always replace that before getting a alt. by changing out my batt up front it helped with voltage drop alot compaired to the ol stock beater and now im running a sundown1500 at.5ohms daily and is doing fine, still plan to add a second batt and HO alt later on since i plan to get another 4channel for my front stage

check the thickness and quantity of the individual strands of wire with in the power wire. The power actually travels along the outside of each individual wire not threw it. So the amount of wire with in the cable is the most important. big 5 meaning the big 3 plus Alternator and battery.
BTW capacitors are not that helpful. Get a HO alternator and a Optima gel cell battery(yellow tops are cheapish and work amazing and can be mounted upside down or sideways). There are batterys u can buy from car audio shops that are meant to store power(similar to how a cap is supposed to work, BUT much better than a cap) that can be mounted in the trunk and connected to your underhood battery to keep it charged.