Wire size and amp capacity - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 05-28-2010, 06:05 PM   #21
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ya know after looking at that amp i see that it does that power @2ohms...makes a dif then. id prob skip the alt for now and do a R&R with your batt under the hood and if it still drops take the cash for the alt and add a second batt in the trunk area.running that amp @ 2ohms shouldnt be too bad on your electrical imo and by going with a second batt over HO alt will save some cash too
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Old 05-28-2010, 06:07 PM   #22
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i was running a modded PPI PCX2400. which pushed over 4000 TRUE watts and 1/2 ohm. Made a friends ear bleed!
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Old 05-28-2010, 06:22 PM   #23
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hell yeah PPI used to make some good stuff. well heres a vid i found doing a walk around my car, about half way will show how i have it under the hood, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QBeGvjkprNk dont mind my goofy *** lol just trying to help lol not trying to threadjack haha
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Old 05-28-2010, 06:38 PM   #24
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The battery under my hood is an Everstart with 800 cranking amps and 770 cold cranking amps, i ordered the 0 gauge. Do you really think a new battery would help, ive seen people put those yellow tops in and they really didnt do anything for voltage drop. When the car is in drive everything runs off the alternator and its also charging the battery, so i dont see how just a battery will help me.
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Old 05-28-2010, 06:48 PM   #25
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how pften do you play your sounds at full tilt? if only here and there then a second batt would do some good and im not too sure about everstarts for audio uses to compair. my old stock wasnt a big name so when i changed out to the yellow top it made a dif for sure. started better in cold and everything. im just thinkin that a HO alt for 1200 RMS is a lil overkill and since your trying to stay on a budget. batt is cheaper than the HO alt too. i know im close to twice the power your running and no HO alt and i only plan to get one cuz i am competing soon too.... even though i cant run my car in MWSPL events FTL. i know a few running AQ2200s off 2 batts and a stock alt with big 3 done and all is good
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:07 PM   #26
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I usually listen to it pretty loud all the time, but no too loud or my battery gauge starts to go with the beat.Ill get the yellow top and i ordered the 0 gauge so ill see how it is once im all done with that.
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Old 05-28-2010, 07:19 PM   #27
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i think i paid like 180-200 for my yellow top at the local parts store. they are pretty nice and start your car in the winter no prob too lol. there are better batt brands out there but for people like us its better to go with the yellowtop due to cost. 3-500 a batt is WAY past my budget lol. let us know how it all goes too mang, pics are def welcomed =)
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Old 05-29-2010, 04:40 PM   #28
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Those optimas dont seem to put out put amps, 870 cranking amps, and 750 cold cranking amps.My dads farm and fleet battery has more than that.
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Old 05-29-2010, 08:16 PM   #29
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whats the amp hours (AH) on your dads batts though? thats a thing to look at when buying up a batt too. i have seen people use other kinds of deep cycles for sudio so that might be something to look into also(from your dads stash lol) optimas are just a name brand really. after talking with one of my teammates he suggested a second batt in back and no HO alt unless the second batt isnt enough.its pretty easy to wire up too. just another option to stay in a budget. then you can keep the batt under your hood and would give ya more juice on hand.
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Old 05-30-2010, 01:07 AM   #30
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So your sayin i should just put another battery in my trunk.Does adding another battery actualy raise the amps going to the amp or just keep the voltage up at all times.
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