it started acting up way before I got the remote start installed. The security light will also come on sometiems while you're driving for no apparent reason. I still think the ignition switch is faulty. Thanks for the link jim.

No, and no. The remote starter is wired in parallel with the ignition key; it does not replace it, nor does any part of it interfere with normal key operation. You also need the original key in the ignition switch anyway, in order to unlock the column.

As for the Security light coming on during driving, that indicates that continuity through the resistor chip in your ignition key was lost for a full uninterrupted 60 seconds. Assuming you've got a clean key in there now, you have either dirty contacts in the key cylinder in the column, or some damaged wiring in the circuit.

These wires are very thin -- maybe 22 gauge, a pair of white wires enclosed in an orange sleeve, and must be sliced open and spliced into a remote starter'* VATS bypass box. It'* possible that if this work was done on your car, the connection where the bypass was cut in is loose or flaky. The bypass box is not supposed to be installed in such a way that replaces the circuit going through the ignition switch (it should take over while the remote starter cranks the engine, then cut itself out again after you've put your key in the ignition), but mainly I think somebody just didn't get the wires solidly connected.

All that aside, the Security light coming on during driving will _not_ shut off the engine. If it'* quitting on you while you drive, you have a completely-unrelated engine problem there.

if you mess around with the ignition switch you can get everything to shut off (barely jiggling it in the right way.) looks like it'* just a faulty ignition switch. I don't think the installers did anything wrong because it had been doing this even before I had gotten the remote start installed on the car.

Well, there ya go.

Keep in mind when you're chasing this down that there are two components to check out: The key lock cylinder in the column, where the key actually goes in, and the electrical ignition switch that is operated when you turn the key, which is actually further down your steering column on the left side, behind the dash, operated by a metal rod coming down the inside of the column from the key lock. (I'm simplifying a lot here, but that'* the basic setup.) If they're out of synch with each other, weird things can happen. Some careful disassembly and inspection will show whether one or the other component is broken, worn out, or just loose...