sub box help
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From: rockford, illinois

Im building a new box and need a little help. The specs that my sub gives for a 2.0 Cubic feet box are- Internal height 19.5, internal width 13.5,internal depth 16". The 19.5 inches tall will not fit in my trunk, the most i can go is like 17" high.Any thoughts on what i should do?
Well if u tune to 32 hz. U will get deep bass but u will miss alot of "notes". Sealed or Ported? Just remember if u go with a ported enclosure u cant push them as hard. It actually lowers ur subs Max power handling abilities.
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From: rockford, illinois

well i want a ported box, sealed just wouldnt get low enough for me. The subs can handle 1500 watts max each, and 750 rms and im gunna be hookin them up to an alpine mrp-m2000 at 2 ohms.
I wouldnt put more that 750 watt max to these subs in a ported enclosure. Ive blown 2200w subs in ported enclosures with about 1000w max going to em. That was with 3.5 or 4 inch voice coils
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From: rockford, illinois

Im going to try and be easy on them, in the owners manual it says that they can handle 500-1250 continuously but they dont recommend anything higher than that.
power doesn't blow a sub, clipping does. don't heat up the coil and it won't blow.
lower you tune, louder the lower notes are, but higher notes fall off faster. 33Hz is a good place to start. Usually a lower tune contributes to higher power handling.
and if your amp gain is set up correctly, it won't blow. That'* why people put 6000+ rms to a 2500w sub and it doesnt blow, but half of the kids in any high school with systems have blown subs.
lower you tune, louder the lower notes are, but higher notes fall off faster. 33Hz is a good place to start. Usually a lower tune contributes to higher power handling.
and if your amp gain is set up correctly, it won't blow. That'* why people put 6000+ rms to a 2500w sub and it doesnt blow, but half of the kids in any high school with systems have blown subs.


