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Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 04-28-2008, 06:18 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
The 200A isolator has a limit of 200A, but you can go below that. There'* a post to hook up your alternator, and then two posts connect to your two batteries' positive terminals. All it does is it stops the batteries from "backflowing" to each other. If you get the 200A one and run it with your 140A alternator, you'll just not be isolator-limited.

By the way, you need to ground out your trunk battery. If you don't, it'* just not going to work. I hooked up mine to the frame. I recommend that you get a dual post front battery and move the one in front to the back. Then, you can use the front battery'* ground post to ground the rear battery. It'* a much more solid ground and far more effective than by going through the chassis. Besides, the chassis only works as a ground because it eventually connects to the ground post of the battery anyway.
Wont that require a lot of rewiring? Where can I put wires through the cab into the engine bay? Ive been looking all over but isnt as easy as my other cars were.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:22 AM   #12
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One wire goes from the alternator to the rear battery for the positive line. You can either ground out to the chassis, or just run another wire from the rear to the front for ground. You can run your wires under the trim on the side. I ran some under the carpeting and all over the place, even one under the car, but that'* a little bit too much. The plastic trim at the edges of the carpeting is the best place to run more wires. There'* a clean area of the firewall right up at the top, by some black plastic. If you drill a hole there, you'll be able to shove a wire right behind the glovebox compartment.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:28 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
One wire goes from the alternator to the rear battery for the positive line. You can either ground out to the chassis, or just run another wire from the rear to the front for ground. You can run your wires under the trim on the side. I ran some under the carpeting and all over the place, even one under the car, but that'* a little bit too much. The plastic trim at the edges of the carpeting is the best place to run more wires. There'* a clean area of the firewall right up at the top, by some black plastic. If you drill a hole there, you'll be able to shove a wire right behind the glovebox compartment.
To reach the firewall do I need to remove the dash or anything else?
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:37 AM   #14
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I don't think anyone here has removed the dash for any other reason than to replace it. There'* plenty of firewall room, and the place I recommend has nothing blocking it except maybe the glovebox. When I did that routing, it took two people to get it done quickly. One guy fed the line while another pulled. If you want, you could get some grommets and route cables through the firewall right by the passenger foot area. Do it near the side, away from all fluid lines.
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Old 04-28-2008, 06:55 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
I don't think anyone here has removed the dash for any other reason than to replace it. There'* plenty of firewall room, and the place I recommend has nothing blocking it except maybe the glovebox. When I did that routing, it took two people to get it done quickly. One guy fed the line while another pulled. If you want, you could get some grommets and route cables through the firewall right by the passenger foot area. Do it near the side, away from all fluid lines.
thanx for the tips, I'll try to take care of that tomorow when its not 20 degrees outside. I'll post here again if I run into problems
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Old 04-28-2008, 07:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radomirthegreat
I don't think anyone here has removed the dash for any other reason than to replace it. There'* plenty of firewall room, and the place I recommend has nothing blocking it except maybe the glovebox. When I did that routing, it took two people to get it done quickly. One guy fed the line while another pulled. If you want, you could get some grommets and route cables through the firewall right by the passenger foot area. Do it near the side, away from all fluid lines.
I decided to bare the cold and took out the glovebox, where is the firewall? Any of those areas or somewhere else?
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Old 04-28-2008, 12:44 PM   #17
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i went thru an already exsisting hole in the fire wall that had wires going thru it.. i just used a flat head to push out the rubber grommet and made room for my 0 gauge wire to fit perfectly. i went thru the fire wall under the steering column next to the fuse box and ran the wire iunder the drivers side floor panels when you open the doors all the way into the trunk.. it was so easy.. you can find the hole on the fire wall behind the master brake cylinder and push it thru to the inside of the car and just fish it out from the driver side from in the car and gently pull it or have some one help feed it to you as you pull it all the way thru..
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:24 PM   #18
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Honestly, before you get this far into a complete rewire, additional battery, isolator..so on...what exactly are you planning to run in your setup. I mean seriously? Unless you plan to run some serious amps in your car...i mean BIG amps...i don't see why you think you need to go through all this. To me it sounds like you simply had a wiring issue with your setup you had the first time through that the battery went dead..or just plan a bad or dead battery to start with...OR a bad alternator that didn't keep your battery up to par.

I did a setup in my old S10 with an additional 200amp second alt next to my stocker with 2 SVR batteries in bed of truck just to power my stereo...but i was setting up for DB drags man. i was pushing 3000 rms through that truck with all Soundstream amps and subs...crazy loud.

Give us an idea of what your planning to run before you get to deep into this eh? for the price your about to drop on a isolator...you can have a brand new battery to run off of as your primary. And take your alternator off and have it checked to be sure if you think it may be borderline. if you got a good alternator and a good battery..i think you will be fine.
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Old 04-28-2008, 01:55 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 88bonnsse
i went thru an already exsisting hole in the fire wall that had wires going thru it.. i just used a flat head to push out the rubber grommet and made room for my 0 gauge wire to fit perfectly. i went thru the fire wall under the steering column next to the fuse box and ran the wire iunder the drivers side floor panels when you open the doors all the way into the trunk.. it was so easy.. you can find the hole on the fire wall behind the master brake cylinder and push it thru to the inside of the car and just fish it out from the driver side from in the car and gently pull it or have some one help feed it to you as you pull it all the way thru..
sweet thanx, Now I know exactly where to look, if its the same way with my car too anyway
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Old 04-28-2008, 02:01 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spl170s
Honestly, before you get this far into a complete rewire, additional battery, isolator..so on...what exactly are you planning to run in your setup. I mean seriously? Unless you plan to run some serious amps in your car...i mean BIG amps...i don't see why you think you need to go through all this. To me it sounds like you simply had a wiring issue with your setup you had the first time through that the battery went dead..or just plan a bad or dead battery to start with...OR a bad alternator that didn't keep your battery up to par.

I did a setup in my old S10 with an additional 200amp second alt next to my stocker with 2 SVR batteries in bed of truck just to power my stereo...but i was setting up for DB drags man. i was pushing 3000 rms through that truck with all Soundstream amps and subs...crazy loud.

Give us an idea of what your planning to run before you get to deep into this eh? for the price your about to drop on a isolator...you can have a brand new battery to run off of as your primary. And take your alternator off and have it checked to be sure if you think it may be borderline. if you got a good alternator and a good battery..i think you will be fine.
Right now my system isnt in real need of all that but I do plan on upgrading tremendously, in that upgrade includes two 2500 watt amps for 2 Visonik subs, interior and exterior LED'*, and more.
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