stereo battery
 

Ok I remember what happened in my last car, I bought a brand new battery, and only 4 seconds of a bass song my subwoofers and amp drained the battery into non existence (Im not lying, the battery was too dead to even turn on a light in the car). I dont want that to happen again so I plan on buying a battery and hooking it into my trunk. I know the amp cable hooks up to the positive post, what do I use to hook it up (I remember seeing something at walmart that went over the post and I would just wire the cable into it but dont know what its called)? Do I hook the negative post to anything? Would a Die Hard Gold or Platinum battery be enough? I do plan on getting a cap so no worries with that. Sorry if these questions are incredibly easy/stupid

Going the wrong way about it mate.

If you are going to run a second battery, I suggest running a battery isolator with it. This way, the isolator will allow you to chose which battery to crank on, and will automatically switch to the less-charged battery after startup to charge it up.

And I've NEVER heard of a fully-charged battery going dead after 4 seconds of play. A NEW battery at that. If your system is that bada$$, I hope you upgraded the alternator.

Im not trying to say my system is incredible but that is what happened and it has broke my window before (wasnt a hatchback). And yes, I absolutely do intend on getting a better alternator. What kind of isolator am I going to need?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

There are cheaper, and there is one designed specifically for GM accoriding to the site, but take a look at the PDF file attached to that site. It will explain to you what its purpose in life is.

cool thank you.

i also have to agree with sandrock on this one.,

i never heard of a new or even fully charged battery draining in 4 seconds.. i run 2 amp's of my stock battery a kicker sx1250.1 and a kicker 350.4 so thats about 1500 watts rms power right there plus all the other thing i have like gps, hid lights, blue interior light bars and its all connected off of my stock battery and it never died or even ran into anything past 12.50 volts while the bass hits and i dont even use a cap..

i have a dual battery install going on right now im working on...
you will need a stinger sr200 200 amp isolator for about $80 and lots of 0 gauge wiring..

you dont want to be cheap with what you buy because it will cause lots of problems in the future with your electrical system....

my stock battery that handles all of this is a duralast gold yellow top with 1000 cranking amps and 850 cold cranking amps.. i paid $85 with a 8 year full replacement warranty at autozone....

Idk, maybe I was given the wrong battery for my car or something or a battery that just looked new. Oh well that was a few years ago and I didnt even pay for it.

I was looking at the Die Hard platinum battery for SUV's and Trucks because he said it would give me a more cranking power because its built for bigger vehicles. I was gonna get two, one for the engine and the second for my system.

I found the Stinger SR200 High Current Relay for Battery Isolation for $46, that the right one?
http://www.hifisoundconnection.com/S...id/0/SFV/30046

If you use that Stinger, you will risk emptying your stronger / better charged battery into the other battery when your car's engine is off but the key is in the Accessory On position. Sandrock recommended an isolator that prevents each battery from knowing the other one is there, and that's the better way to go.

Yes, the Stinger in the link is the one he recommended. If you do buy it, carefully follow the instructions. Then, have fun with your awesome audio system!

EDIT:
With a stock 140 amp alternator, you can charge two batteries at up to a distributed 140 amperes. Here's an isolator for that:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=270230921225
If you upgrade to a 200A alternator, here's an isolator that will hold up to charging two batteries while keeping them separate.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=370045111141

Nothing against the Stinger, though. It's just not high tech enough for me.

I'll have to buy the higher amp one cause I plan on getting a 160A alternator at some point or will there be a problem using the 200A iso with my stock alternator?

The 200A isolator has a limit of 200A, but you can go below that. There's a post to hook up your alternator, and then two posts connect to your two batteries' positive terminals. All it does is it stops the batteries from "backflowing" to each other. If you get the 200A one and run it with your 140A alternator, you'll just not be isolator-limited.

By the way, you need to ground out your trunk battery. If you don't, it's just not going to work. I hooked up mine to the frame. I recommend that you get a dual post front battery and move the one in front to the back. Then, you can use the front battery's ground post to ground the rear battery. It's a much more solid ground and far more effective than by going through the chassis. Besides, the chassis only works as a ground because it eventually connects to the ground post of the battery anyway.