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Old 10-03-2003, 01:13 PM   #21
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Awesome speed limit pick!!

Mine don't work either. I'll have to check it out. Of course I have a different stereo too. Too much to do, so little time...
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Old 10-03-2003, 04:09 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrueWildMan
Awesome speed limit pick!!

Mine don't work either. I'll have to check it out. Of course I have a different stereo too. Too much to do, so little time...
Thanks, problem with those runs, is that you tend to run out of road before you run out of speed.
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Old 10-04-2003, 01:06 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacDad
You may have a button stuck 'on'...........heres what I found.

DTC B2810 Steering Whl Ctrl Entertainment CKT Malf
Circuit Description
The steering wheel controls consist of multiple momentary contact switches that connect a series of resistors so that each switch selection corresponds to a fixed resistance value. These fixed resistance values allow the Dash Integration Module (DIM) to identify which switch has been pressed. The DIM upon receiving and identifying the switch input, will send a class 2 message to the radio in order to carry out the request.

Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition must be turned on.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
An entertainment switch must be stuck (pressed) for at least 30 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The DIM will ignore all switch commands.
DTC B2810 will set current as long as the fault is present.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The stuck switch condition must be corrected.
The DTC can be cleared with a scan tool.
The history DTC will clear after 50 fault free ignition cycles.
This doesn't sound like a Bonneville code or system. Is it?
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Old 10-04-2003, 01:08 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by showhat9
OK had everything apart on the steering wheel last weekend. All the switches were fine. Harness was fine, ground was good. WTF??
What/where should I be looking now. All the buttons light up and before they went dead some would work, others would not.
Also, non related, the MFS(Multifunction Switch) for the Highbeams seems to have taken a hike as well. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
How did you know that the switches were fine? Did you check for resistance across the outputs while pushing them?
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Old 10-05-2003, 07:54 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuddyduddy121
Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacDad
You may have a button stuck 'on'...........heres what I found.

DTC B2810 Steering Whl Ctrl Entertainment CKT Malf
Circuit Description
The steering wheel controls consist of multiple momentary contact switches that connect a series of resistors so that each switch selection corresponds to a fixed resistance value. These fixed resistance values allow the Dash Integration Module (DIM) to identify which switch has been pressed. The DIM upon receiving and identifying the switch input, will send a class 2 message to the radio in order to carry out the request.

Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition must be turned on.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
An entertainment switch must be stuck (pressed) for at least 30 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The DIM will ignore all switch commands.
DTC B2810 will set current as long as the fault is present.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The stuck switch condition must be corrected.
The DTC can be cleared with a scan tool.
The history DTC will clear after 50 fault free ignition cycles.
This doesn't sound like a Bonneville code or system. Is it?
OK Im now at Stumpt city. Went ahead and did the JB Trick, rubber pods were perfect looking no mushrooming, applied a wee be to everything per the instructions. Cleaned all the contacts let it set per instructions, reassebled - nothing - zero zip nada.
Next tried the DTC Trick - same result.
Are my pods FUBAR???? What if anything can be done next???
*Getting grief from spousal unit on this, need redemption.*
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Old 10-05-2003, 08:49 PM   #26
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OK, you need to test the resistance at the wiring harness. Two of the wires are for the lights. The other two you need to measure the resistance across them.

When you press buttons, the resistance should indicate:

Volume up - 1564 ohms
Volume down - 1912 ohms
Band - 3102 ohms

The service manual says in one place that you have to test across A & B, and in another it says A & C.

I would say try to find the two that will light the lamps with 12V, then you know it is the other two that you need to test.
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Old 10-06-2003, 11:26 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fuddyduddy121
OK, you need to test the resistance at the wiring harness. Two of the wires are for the lights. The other two you need to measure the resistance across them.

When you press buttons, the resistance should indicate:

Volume up - 1564 ohms
Volume down - 1912 ohms
Band - 3102 ohms

The service manual says in one place that you have to test across A & B, and in another it says A & C.

I would say try to find the two that will light the lamps with 12V, then you know it is the other two that you need to test.
Thanks, I was going to do that also yesterday, Multi-meter batter was dead. :(
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