That'* not a problem on the Bonneville. There'* a good service loop in the column.

No way to really tell what'* going on in there until you pull it apart, but that'* a good question...did they all go out at the same time? Did some work and not others? Do they FEEL different from each other?

And now for the rest of the story...
My cruise control cable got broken from (the fast ups=downs) so I replaced that... But I forgot to to use a fishing line.. So trying to pull the new wire through was a Bitch... So I broke some of the wires inside prey around with a screw driver.. so Then I just took all the panels off and restrung the broken wires (just back 5'') And only some went out... But It wasnt all that hard to do.. just take off your airbag before tampering around in there.. Dont want to cross over a wire or anything

Remembering that it'* my wife'* car - the feel has been getting "mushy" for a while. The 50# of pressure is no joke. At first some functioned, others didn't, quickly followed by total failure. Good news is they evidently are getting voltage as they light up, bad news, freakin steering wheel is coming down. I'm seriously considering the toothpick trick as that sounds more stable. Any recommendations on that as well. Surgery slated for this up coming Saturday. BTW what is the beer count on this repair?

which is faster the sho or the bonnie i wanted a sho till i saw the bonnie

My preference would be the JB weld procedure....that'* why I wrote it up. Worked wonders. If you use the toothpick fix, SAVE the little rubber thingies. You can fall back on them if necessary. Some of your switches may not feel 'clicky' when you get them out, but that doesn't mean they don't work. After disassembly, with the microswitches exposed, plug it back in and try them with fingers on the switches. THEN go ahead with the fix if they all work.

Beer count was 9, but I drink fast, and was done in less than an hour. JB weld took overnight to dry, so the rest of the case disappeared.

I have a Generation III V8 SHO. The Bonnie has more torque, but in N/A Stock mode the SHO smokes it every time. Now a modded SSSEi would probably have the upper hand. My top speed is 144 which is where the rev limiter - take out the computer or reflash it to eliminate the limiters and they are easily capable of 150+ runs

Note that there are at least 2000 more rpm available. Don't know Ford'* logic in using the limiter. 144 -160 what'* the difference??? Are the Bonnies limited with EEC controls??

I basically pulled that off in my Aurora...but I was doing 10 mph less, and almost 1000 less RPM...

Impressive little pic you got there

OK had everything apart on the steering wheel last weekend. All the switches were fine. Harness was fine, ground was good. WTF??
What/where should I be looking now. All the buttons light up and before they went dead some would work, others would not.
Also, non related, the MFS(Multifunction Switch) for the Highbeams seems to have taken a hike as well. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks

You may have a button stuck 'on'...........heres what I found.

DTC B2810 Steering Whl Ctrl Entertainment CKT Malf
Circuit Description
The steering wheel controls consist of multiple momentary contact switches that connect a series of resistors so that each switch selection corresponds to a fixed resistance value. These fixed resistance values allow the Dash Integration Module (DIM) to identify which switch has been pressed. The DIM upon receiving and identifying the switch input, will send a class 2 message to the radio in order to carry out the request.

Conditions for Running the DTC
The ignition must be turned on.

Conditions for Setting the DTC
An entertainment switch must be stuck (pressed) for at least 30 seconds.

Action Taken When the DTC Sets
The DIM will ignore all switch commands.
DTC B2810 will set current as long as the fault is present.
Conditions for Clearing the MIL/DTC
The stuck switch condition must be corrected.
The DTC can be cleared with a scan tool.
The history DTC will clear after 50 fault free ignition cycles.

Thanks, any thoughts on the MFS for the high beams??