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Old 09-05-2004, 05:28 AM   #1
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Default rewired my headlights, few questions in the aftermath

well i just rewired my headlights because i wanted highs and lows on at the same time and i tihnk sometihng was sapping watts away from them, boy what a difference they are bright as hell now, but this leads me to a problem, with my headlights wired on their own system now, the car computer tihnks the headlights are out, so here is my question, can i tape the iriginal light power supple back on and have them both, i mean it sounds like itd be too much power but its all comming form the battery so its gonna be 12 volts no matter what right? so logically there shudnt be a problem, but i wanna get a more learned opinion befor ei go ahead and hook them both up
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Old 09-05-2004, 09:50 AM   #2
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couldn't you put a resistor of the right resistance on the original wiring? That way you don't have to hook them back up.. but that may be a little too much work. Hooking up the original wiring to the new stuff will be just fine. Try it and make sure all the lights work though, I am not sure of that.

No you can't apply 24 volts from a 12 system


-justin
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Old 09-06-2004, 12:53 AM   #3
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well it works up until when i turn on the new switches, then i guess the draw evens out and the ligihtng module doesnt detect enough draw and i get the light warning again, but at least now i kno as soon as i turn the switches off they go back to normal and i still have my dayrunners and the highbeam switch registers so i get the indicator light so i can disocnnect that blinding blue led that came inside the switch
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Old 09-15-2004, 11:42 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NERV
well it works up until when i turn on the new switches, then i guess the draw evens out and the ligihtng module doesnt detect enough draw and i get the light warning again, but at least now i kno as soon as i turn the switches off they go back to normal and i still have my dayrunners and the highbeam switch registers so i get the indicator light so i can disocnnect that blinding blue led that came inside the switch
How exactly did you alter your wiring to keep your low beams on with your high beams?

The Adaptive Lamp Monitor will eventually learn the new current draw on the circuit (over about 40 driving cycles, give or take a few) and stop complaining at you, but you should not be wiring the headlamps such that you're drawing power for all beams off the high-beam circuit alone.

The usual approach is to run a separate, fused power supply for the low-beam circuit that is turned on by a relay. That relay in turn is controlled by the high beam circuit: when that circuit goes hot, it turns on the relay, which in turn switches on the separate power supply to the low beams. The car'* original low-beam circuit remains as-is.

It'* okay to put a fuse rather than a circuit breaker on your new low-beam circuit because if that fuse blows for any reason, it won't leave you in sudden darkness: the original headlamp circuits are still intact, and are protected by an automatically-resetting circuit breaker in the headlight switch.
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Old 09-16-2004, 03:46 PM   #5
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Would it damage anythin to have have a seperate hot power goin to the lows when the hi'* are on? Would it not travel back up the stock hot lead for the lo'*??
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Old 09-17-2004, 11:04 AM   #6
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Would it damage anything to have have a separate hot power goin to the lows when the hi'* are on? Would it not travel back up the stock hot lead for the lo'*??
Sure it would, but where would it go? It doesn't matter which end of the wire the current goes in, whether it'* up at the switch or down behind the headlamp; it can only pass through the filaments to get to ground, since the switch up at the other end is currently off.

In fact this _is_ how you power the low beams when the high beams are on: you provide them with a separate power source, since (1) you can't tap into the high beam circuit to power both beams (you'll double the current load on that wiring), and (2) the normal low-beam power source is turned off when the high beams go on.

Ergo (hey, there'* an expensive word), you use a relay that'* triggered by the high-beam circuit, and have it turn on a separate power supply that you put in for the low beams.

You don't need a fancy relay; the usual black plastic 30-amp automotive relay from Radio Shack will do fine. Just be sure that you have a fuse in the new power supply to the low beams.
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Old 09-17-2004, 11:14 AM   #7
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cool.. thanx. that makes sense that it'* off.. it makes sense that it'* open on the other end that controls the lows..
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