remote wire
#2
If you want install two remote power wires do that. Otherwise just run one wire from the HU to an amp, then take another bit of wire and run it from the amp getting the remote power on to the one that is not.
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When my stereo was installed, we ran a remote wire from the amp to the fuse box and hooked it up to a fuse that'* remote only. Hope this helps.
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Wanna know the BEST way to get remote turn-on? Find an accessory hot wire or your amp-turn on from the car stereo, run it to the back. Now then, since you have constant hot back there (amp feed wire), tap into that too, but I would recommend 8 gauge, and terminate with a female spade. Next run a ground from, say, the seatbelt mount, and do the same as far as termination goes. Then, make yourself a power bus using a fuseblock from autozone or advance...not too expensive, I think maybe 5 bux for a 8 circuit box, which is more than plenty. Finally, take all those wires and plumb them into a new relay.
Now you have a switched power source with fuse protection for all your remote turn-on needs (amplifiers, neons, etc) and you won't have to worry about overdraw on just that one turn-on lead.
Now you have a switched power source with fuse protection for all your remote turn-on needs (amplifiers, neons, etc) and you won't have to worry about overdraw on just that one turn-on lead.
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Originally Posted by sandrock
Wanna know the BEST way to get remote turn-on? Find an accessory hot wire or your amp-turn on from the car stereo, run it to the back. Now then, since you have constant hot back there (amp feed wire), tap into that too, but I would recommend 8 gauge, and terminate with a female spade. Next run a ground from, say, the seatbelt mount, and do the same as far as termination goes. Then, make yourself a power bus using a fuseblock from autozone or advance...not too expensive, I think maybe 5 bux for a 8 circuit box, which is more than plenty. Finally, take all those wires and plumb them into a new relay.
Now you have a switched power source with fuse protection for all your remote turn-on needs (amplifiers, neons, etc) and you won't have to worry about overdraw on just that one turn-on lead.
Now you have a switched power source with fuse protection for all your remote turn-on needs (amplifiers, neons, etc) and you won't have to worry about overdraw on just that one turn-on lead.
If he was doing a lot of other aftermarket electronics it would make sense, but not for the stereo IMO.
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Remote turn-on is low current. If he is powering one amp and only one amp, I agree it is a bit overkill to use a relay. But even though the setup I mentioned above is a tad complicated, it works very well when powering multiple amps and neons. And makes for future upgrades easier as well
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Originally Posted by sandrock
Remote turn-on is low current. If he is powering one amp and only one amp, I agree it is a bit overkill to use a relay. But even though the setup I mentioned above is a tad complicated, it works very well when powering multiple amps and neons. And makes for future upgrades easier as well
But you can easily run 3-4 amps off a remote wire. Heck, I had one strand of my power wire (one strand is like 30 gauge or something like that) touch my remote terminal and it was enough to turn the amp on. Boy that took a wire to figure out, since I couldn't see it w/o looking really close
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Most head units will give you about 250-500mA of current on the remote turn-on lead. Adaquite enough for a simple multi-amp install. For fans and lights I would always suggest using a relay, but my configuration runs 3 amps and I see no reason to do more than simply split the remote output to each amp.
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Heres an easier way to get remote turn on. Do you have a power antena? If so, tap in on the 12 volt power from that. And when the radio goes on and the antena goes up, your amp/* will kick on. You wont have to run all of that wiring to the trunk from the front. If your worried if it wont power on all three, then get a relay. Your all set.