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Old 12-11-2009, 08:45 PM   #1
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Default Remote Start & Starter Kill Questions

I just purchased my fourth Avital 4103 Remote Starter. I've put the first two in my parent'* cars (98 Altima GXE & 97 Accord SE), one in my Bravada and now my new Regency gets one.

Under the dash, there are clear signs of a previous remote starter installation. Cut wires taped to the ignition switch harness (12V, starter, ignition, accessory) wires, a random snipped wire where the hood release trim panel is, and best of all, a starter kill switch in the ashtray... I'm picturing the first owner of this Olds, perhaps a cynical older gentleman, being conned into a remote start/alarm system to protect his new "flashy" investment... You can't forget the kill switch; one of those inner city hooligans might want to steal your 17' land yacht... (No offense to the many 17' land yacht drivers here, btw)

Now, all joking aside, I'd like to keep the starter disable relay (which I'm unsure about it'* location at this time), and hook it up to the output of my remote start so I can use the relay as a starter kill (when the doors are locked w/ remote start) and an Anti-Grind relay (when the remote-start is activated). How would I go about connecting the wires from the kill switch to the remote start?

Also, What about the VATS system? My light still comes on when I turn the key, but how do I know if it hasn't already been disabled? I couldn't find any resistors wired in anywhere under the dash... I know I'll have to get this sorted out before the remote start is fully functional.

Any tips?

Nick
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Old 01-05-2010, 11:15 AM   #2
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We must have missed you before, did you get everything installed and working?

With the old remote start he probably had an immobilizer bypass put in so that the immobilizer is only disabled while the car is remote started and then any other time if functions normally to protect the car from having the cylinder picked
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Old 01-05-2010, 04:27 PM   #3
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Hello, I got the remote start in and I tried to install it, and of course, it worked fine, but only because I still had the key in the ignition... Once I removed it, the starter and fuel pump became disabled like it should. The starter kill switch was literally just that. Someone cut the starter wire at the ignition switch harness, and connected two (like 22 gauge, I might add) wires and just attached them to a switch. After realizing this hack of a kill switch, I removed the switch and wires and got it all back to factory spec.

I've still got to order the DEI 555L VATS bypass module. Unlike other modules, it doesn't require you to have a key in the box under the dash. You connect it to the passkey wires and every time you turn the key in the ignition, it learns the resistance value (a very accurate way, btw. This way, if the resistance of the key slowly increases/decreases with age, the module always sends the correct resistance value). It also does not bypass the factory passkey system. When you start normally, Passkey is still active. The only time the module bypasses it is when the remote starter sends the signal to the module...

Thanks for the reply. I'll have to update when I get the module in.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:52 PM   #4
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I've never been a fan of bypass kits that require a key, I can make a $10 bypass kit with an extra key, a relay, and some wire
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:20 PM   #5
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To me, that'* the beauty of the DEI module. Currently, it can be had for $15, it doesn't change the operation of the Passkey system during normal use, it requires no pesky resistors which can leave you stranded, and it self-learns the value of the key every time you use it. How could you get any better than that, especially for the price?

I've already wired up relays for a starter kill/anti-grind and the remote trunk release. I could just use the GM remote for the trunk actuator, but I'd rather have the whole thing using one remote.

The only thing I'm going to have to find out is how to tap into the memory function. When I unlock my doors with MY transmitter, the mirrors, seats (and even climate control setting/radio presets, IIRK) move to my programmed position. I'm going to have to find out how to tap into the signal for that function. It'* too cool to bypass.

I remember my mom was all excited when she bought her 2001 C5 after she sold her 40th Anniversary C4. It had the memory seat/mirrors/etc. with remote personalization. The outside mirrors were heated and auto-dimming too. When I bought my 1998 Olds Regency a couple of months ago, she was amazed to see that I had all of those functions that her Corvette has in a car that was half as expensive new and was 3 years older...

Nick
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