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Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 03-13-2004, 02:14 AM   #11
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Oh nice!!

the amp you have will only do speakers. Subwoofers off of it will be bad. Any amp that does 4 speakers and some subs is also not good.

You'll want to find some subs you like, then an amp that works well with them.

But like i said above that amp will be good for speakers, so what i just said, and some nice components will make you a very happy man
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Old 03-13-2004, 02:23 AM   #12
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So I need to buy a HU, component speakers for the front doors, subs in a sealed enclosure, and an amp to power those. I'm guessing that'* gonna be pretty close to my $1500 budget. Good deal. I was looking at one of the sites that jachin recommended and they have 2 subs in an enclosure that look good. What do you think? Here'* the link and the model number:

http://nexxon.com/jlaudio/enclosures.htm

CS210R-W0
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:06 PM   #13
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Looks good! You want to check for an amplifiers 'damping factor' in the specifications. In a nutshell, the damping factor tells you how well an amplifier can control a speakers movement. Obviously, this is pretty important when you buy a amplifier that you are going to use with a subwoofer. The higher number the better.

Also, what about crossovers? You'll want a low pass crossover around 80Hz (adjustable is even better). Some head units come with them built in, some amplifiers come with them built in. Either way, you need one on the Head Unit or Amp.

Also be sure your rear deck/front door speakers can handle the power of whatever amp you are going to drive them with. You don't want to blow 'em. Some bass blockers (I've forgotten who makes these) might be helpful.
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:05 PM   #14
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Damping factor has been latched on by the marketing folks so wouldn't take it too terribly seriously. Slew rate, which you probably won't find rated on most mass market amps shows a whole lot more about what the amp can do dynamically and such. Since you're hitting Cruthfield, check out the USAcoustics amps. They all have adequate crossovers and other stuff for your needs. As far as heads, Clarion or Alpine in the price range you're looking too spend. And last but not least, spend the most on the speakers. They're what you hear the most of. I really have to recommend this sub: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=299-660
Parts Express: Browsing 12" DVC HIGH-PERFORMANCE SUBWOOFER
This sub is an animal. I'm running one with 900 watts and it'* frightening. No you don't need 900w to run it(300-500 would probably make you smile). And all you need is one in a 1.0 cu.ft. or so sealed enclosure. And some components are a necessity. That'* up to you as far as listening and budget. Get what sounds good to YOU and your wallet. These are the weakest link in most all systems. QUALITY BEFORE QUANTITY. You should be able to do that for less than $1500.
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:26 PM   #15
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That stinks that dampnig factor has become a marketing term :( Ah well....

Just curious, how does slew rate compare with damping factor? Do both measure the same thing?
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:54 PM   #16
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Slew rate is pretty much the difference between the input and the output signal measured in
Volts/ usec.
Think of damping factor as the ability for the amp to stop "ringing".
Ahhh. Found an old bookmark. This is all debatable to terrible levels, I'll let you read a bit
http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/...ingFactor.html
Awesome site by the way.
Damping factor is redundant to measure unless you're running tubes.
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Old 03-16-2004, 09:16 AM   #17
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plan to spend a lot on the install of whatever you purchase. Different trims 2000+ can have different radio configurations that require "unique" installation. Some have to have the dual location harness installed for a new head unit (the factory head unit stays installed in the car connected to the factory harness via an extension cable in the trunk). You will loose the "chime" (open door, lights on, low gas) and you may loose some vehicle functionality. I had a Pioneer Premier installed, lost the chime but everything else is ok, however I have only the SE line and did not have the bose system, or DIC, or anything else. TaylorD would know a lot about this as well.
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Old 03-16-2004, 10:38 AM   #18
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I've forgotten who makes it (Maybe a company called PAC?) has a module available now that can give you your factory chime back.

Ahhhh, here is one of the companies that makes one.

http://peripheralelectronics.com/2002/home.asp
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Old 03-16-2004, 10:43 AM   #19
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Here'* another company.....

http://www.pac-audio.com
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Old 03-16-2004, 10:57 AM   #20
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Thanks for the information and links guys. Now I have more to look at and understand before I go spending a lot of money. I'll let you know what I am about to buy before I actually do. Check back later...
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