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Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 05-31-2007, 11:08 AM   #1
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Default My new install with pics to come

The car 1993 Bonneville se
The setup
Pioneer DEH-P3900MP
pair Polk Audio db Series db461p 2-Way plate speakers 4x6
pair Polk Audio db Series db690 3-Way 6x9 speakers
2 x Polk Audio MM Series MM2154DVC 15" subs ported box
HIFONICS Brutus 2000 watt D-Class Mono 2000 watts rms @ 1 ohm with 200 amp breaker
Lanzar Vibe 4 channel 75 @ 4 ohms per channel or 125 @ 2 ohms with 60 amp fuse
Power Acoustik 8 farad stiffening cap
Lighting audio interconnects
2/0 gauge power wire
12 gauge speaker wire
Let me know what you think
I can't buy any thing different now as I have already purchased this
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Old 05-31-2007, 09:59 PM   #2
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I would still like some opinions this setup even though I can't change it much except the box type.
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Old 05-31-2007, 11:11 PM   #3
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I am curious as to why you stuck with 4x6 speakers? They are probably one of the worst speaker shapes ever.

You seen to like polk stuff, that is quite obvious.

Personally I wouldn't select any of those things if I ever building a system. Especially the cap, why not get a better alt or a second battery, it would be much better.

Also, why 2/0 and not 1/0?
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Old 05-31-2007, 11:53 PM   #4
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on the 4x6 they are not true 4x6 it is a plate speaker it is hard to explain here is a link
http://www.cardomain.com/item/POLDB461P
as far the rest I am not sure Just wanted the system to match
I also forgot to mention I have second battery(odyssey battery) and a isolator help the system as well
the 2/0 is because I 30ft of welding grade 2/0 on hand
for the comment criticism is alway welcome it helps find things I forgot and the weak spots in the system
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Old 06-01-2007, 12:41 AM   #5
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Look like a decent system. 2/0ga is great- overkill never hurts. Those 4x6 plates should be your best bet, short of cutting a bigger hole for something else. As was previously mentioned, the cap is a bit unnecessary. Since you have it, use it. Do you have a high output alternator yet? If not, that should be your next upgrade. Then upgrade you power wires under the hood to larger wires (alternator to battery, battery to ground, engine to ground)
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Old 06-01-2007, 11:44 AM   #6
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I am trying to avoid buying a high out put alternator by using the second batter and a isolator do you think this will work btw the 2nd battery is a 65lb dry cell original meant for a tractor trailer
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Old 06-01-2007, 12:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundexcess
I am trying to avoid buying a high out put alternator by using the second batter and a isolator do you think this will work btw the 2nd battery is a 65lb dry cell original meant for a tractor trailer
why not just jump in the group alternator buy, that is going on currently on the forum. would save you a bunch of money on a much better alt.
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Old 06-01-2007, 01:44 PM   #8
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I second the alternator group buy. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=78333

With a high power stereo comes high current draw (assuming you listen to it loud most of the time-which is why you have it right?) You need an alternator that keeps up with this draw or else you will end up with dead batteries (if system pulls the all the alternator'* current and then some, the batteries drain too and the alternator can't supply enough current to the batteries and stereo)

Here'* some rough estimations for you. Together, your amps put out 2300w rms. For real music, they may be putting out 1/2 power on a regular basis. That'* 1150w output. At around 75% effiency together, they would be consuming 1438w to make that power. Since I=P/E, your amps would be drawing about 104A at 13.8v. That eats up basically all of the output of you OEM 105A alternator. You have nothing left for all the other accessories (cd player, abs, engine electronics, blower motor, etc) and for recharging the battery(*). Any current they demand would be supplied from your batteries. And with 2 batteries, that means one more load on the system demanding power. If you use your system to burp sine waves for spl competitions, you current demand almost doubles. So unless you want to periodically let the car idle without the stereo on, I'd implant a new alternator.
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Old 06-01-2007, 03:13 PM   #9
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okay jumped int the group on the alt buy, btw estimated rms maximum between the two amps is 2700watts at least according to white paper so what would the amp draw be on this, also I will be running a bandpass enclosure. I also have changed the speakers and the subs to this now
one pair KAPPA462.7CFP - Infinity 4" x 6" two-way plate loudspeaker
one pair KAPPA693.7I - Infinity 6 x 9" three-way loudspeaker
2 x KAPPA PERFECT12DVQ - Infinity Kappa Perfect Series 12" Die-cast subwoofer
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Old 06-02-2007, 12:25 AM   #10
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Why does everyone run/suggest to run a second battery?? It only increases the load on the alternator. The only advantage to a second battery is extended engine off listening time.
The higher output alternator, I can see.

My 2 cents.


Tim
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