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Old 04-20-2008, 10:59 PM   #1
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Default isolator and 2nd battery questions..95 se install

1- is it safe to have a battery in my trunk.?

2- does it matter what kind of battery for it to be safe.?

3- where is the best place to connect the car'* ignition power wire to my isolator.? ( where do i tap into ) the isolator will be under the hood some where in the engine compartment.

4- ok the instructions for my isolator ( stinger sr200 ) say to hook it up this way

there are four connections on the isolator.

connection one goes to the car'* main ignition wire
connection 2 goes to the car'* chassis ground
connection 3 to the car'* main battery
connection 4 goes to the sound system'* battery / batteries.


now i have a total of 4 amp'* i want to run.. 2 sub amp'* and 2 voice/mid bass amp'*.

can i just connect 2 amp'* to each battery using the isolator to hook up the second battery in the loop.?

i figured a sub amp and a voice amp on each battery. and one of the batteries will be the car'* main battery as i am running one sub amp and one voice amp off my main batteyr now with out any problems....so i figured another battery in the trunk would be good for the other 2 amp'*...

can you'* help me with the install....

what is the correct way to hook up the isolator and 2 batteries... and do i ground everything to different spots on the car'* chassis ground..?

all help with my install would be greatly appericated... thanks
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Old 04-21-2008, 12:58 AM   #2
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Hello. Here'* what I believe to be correct based on personal knowledge and experience.

1 - I have a battery in my trunk, and it hasn't leaked. Maybe a leak of battery acid might change your thoughts on this, but you can always get a gel battery rather than an acid one. Optimas are gel batteries. Even though this is a "trunK" battery, you'd still be better off with a red top than a yellow top.

2 - Kinda covered in 1. On the other hand, an acid battery wouldn't damage much if it were to leak. Just paint, maybe, and if you don't take care of it at all, which I can't see happening, then you could have extreme corrosion and a hole in the trunk.

3 - You have a remotely switched battery isolator. It won't charge your trunk battery with the alternator until you turn on the key. If you keep your key in the ON position but don't have your engine running, you would put undue stress on the front battery. I suggest wiring an on/off switch to near the dash that goes to any 12V line with 18AWG or smaller wires. The ignition wire is 12V when ON and nothing, not ground or anything, when OFF. This has some advantages. If your alternator starts making funny noises, you can shut off the connection to the rear battery and relieve some stress until you can get a replacement alternator. If you don't want to go with a switch, see how far back you can trace the ignition wire from your head unit. (Remote power)

4 - Ton of stuff here...

Connection 1, view 3 above.
Connection 2, preferably to the engine block, the actual chassis and not a metal piece attached to it, or to the ground of the car'* main battery.
Connection 3 to the + of the car'* alternator wire. Beef up that alternator wire to a 4AWG.
Connection 4 to the + of the trunk battery.

Since your isolator has a max of 200 amperes, look at amps' fuses and add them up. If you have one 50A fuse on each amplifier, you could connect all four amps to the rear battery. However, I would suggest upwards of three amps on the rear battery and one on the front since the 200 rating should be lower than the true mechanical max but still kind of risky.

I took out all my sound stuff from the 94, and the little lawn & garden battery is dead. :( Everything is in the garage, and it'* kind of difficult to get to it. Your isolator is a relay switch, but I like the ones that always stop backflow. They're really expensive, though. With one of those, you basically connect the alternator output wire to the IN and connect each battery to the OUT connectors. No battery can flow back and charge another, but the alternator always charges the other batteries.

The cool thing about your isolator is that if you "outgrow" it, you can always use the ignition connector to wire up a switch that controls the power to a 200A 12V device.
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Old 04-21-2008, 03:49 AM   #3
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hope you are planning on changing out the alternator to a high output one, otherwise you are just asking to cook alternators, i have an article at work about how 2nd battery affects load on the charging system ill scan it for ya, its a good read
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Old 04-21-2008, 05:11 AM   #4
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I have a small Lawn & Garden battery, so I didn't really see the point in getting a higher output alternator. My main battery'* terminals fell apart before it died when then this happened:
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=88742

Also, the alternator had at least over 100,000 miles on it and a bad bearing noise before it went out. I do support the higher output alternator idea. The replacement from AC Delco is still good, but it hasn't been running much with two batteries. I honestly do plan on getting a higher output alternator...
I'm a terrible role model.
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Old 04-21-2008, 10:39 AM   #5
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my digital sub amp'* have NO on board built in fuse'* at all.. just my 2 voice amps do...

im not planning on playing my system fully unless the car is on no matter what..

can i put the 2 sub amps on the battery in the trunk and 2 voice amps on my main battery."?

i am trying to see if i can find a alternator from 160 amps to 200 amps or if i can get a rebuild kit and make mine go from 140 to 160 amps or something..

and my wire for the alternator now is 8 ga so i will definetly change it to 4 gauge as all my power wires will be 0 ga for the sub amp'* and batteries and 4 gauge for the 2 voice amp'*...

the 4 amps are 2 kicker sx1250.1'* and 2 kx 350.4'*


also can i use this alternator.. it is a cs144 that was 140 amp'* but beefed up to 200 amp'*.... would it fit my 95 s2.... it looks like it will fit perfect...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200-A...spagenameZWDVW
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Old 04-21-2008, 05:23 PM   #6
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just out of curiousity why do you need 8 channels for the interior? ... ideally you would want to upgrade your underhood wiring from Alt to batt, bat to ground and chassis ground (i upgraded them all to 0ga in the focus) and run 0ga back with that much power you MIGHT end up running 2 lengths of 0 back depending on the draw of the amps.. and i will tell you from personal experiance those amps a SUPER power hungry
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Old 04-21-2008, 07:25 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiReDeViL
just out of curiousity why do you need 8 channels for the interior? ... ideally you would want to upgrade your underhood wiring from Alt to batt, bat to ground and chassis ground (i upgraded them all to 0ga in the focus) and run 0ga back with that much power you MIGHT end up running 2 lengths of 0 back depending on the draw of the amps.. and i will tell you from personal experiance those amps a SUPER power hungry
i am running 4 speakers off one kx 350.4 ( 2 8'' beyma'* and 2 6'' beyma'*
and on the other i am running 2 10'' evm 10m mid range speakers bridged to all channels for maximum power output as the evm'* need more wattage...

and i will be upgrading all my wires.. i have a 100 ft roll of stinger 100% oxygen free copper wire..
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