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Old 03-15-2009, 10:39 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4.0scbonnie View Post
you could always drill some holes in the box, run the wiring through than silicone the holes shut so you have no noise coming out of the hole?
acutally thats how the box is built already. it is a custom made box by my local audio store and they made it with the wires coming out the bottom and siliconed. and yes i could run a voicecoil to each channel. but the lower ohms u get, the more power the amp puts out. so by running each sub at 2 ohms instead of 4 ohms, the amp is pushing more power. i have everything hooked up right now and its poundin pretty hard. im waitin to get my brothers 2000 watt class d amp that is 1ohm stable, cuz if i can run those subs at 1ohm, it will murder the lows.
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Old 03-25-2009, 02:45 AM   #12
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Whoever told you to do this stuff is intentionally trying to ruin your system.


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I jus got a 4800 watt sycho sound deranged amp for my 2 12" L5'*. ive never really hooked up a 4 channel amp before to subs, so i have some questions.
my subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils but i have them each run down to 2 ohms right now. i asked sum ppl on a car audio website how to hook this up and this is wat they told me.

on channel 1/2, hook a sub to each channel. for the other 2 channels, run a wire from the pos of a channel to the neg of the other channel, and then pos from other channel to neg of other channel. they then said to run a wire from the remote wire to each neg terminal of the channels the subs are connected to. well i did that and my fuse to my radio keeps blowing. im guessing because of the remote being hooked to the neg terminals.

anybody know anything about this?
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Old 03-26-2009, 12:57 AM   #13
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can I ask which site you went to that gave this advice. Just curious. And my advice for what its worth would be to become good friends with the local shop you trust and buy your gear from and pick their brain when you need tech help. Most shops are willing to assist when you are buying from them.
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Old 03-26-2009, 02:32 PM   #14
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you should switch up and get an amp that two channels it will sound better on the subs then that four channel ever will
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Old 03-26-2009, 03:51 PM   #15
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you should switch up and get an amp that two channels it will sound better on the subs then that four channel ever will
not necessarily... it depends on the amp... what hes wanting to do is bridge each of the two subs at1 or 2ohms... and if he did that on a 2 channel amp with those subs it would probably overheat the amp and cause it to shut off or mess up... where as with a GOOD 4 channel amp, you could bridge both 1 and 2 together, 2 ohms at peak between the two, and 3 and 4 together, 2 ohms at peak between the two... and it SHOULDN'T cause much damage, it would stress the amp but if its well built it will hold it and hit hard

but id like an audio gearhead to give a Yay or Nay to my thoughts... i see this being the best option but i dont own a shop like Rkrug so hed be the better to finish off the suggestion
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Old 03-26-2009, 08:35 PM   #16
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OK, heres the deal. First the subs I am assuming are the 4ohm DVC L5'* not the 2ohm DVC L5'* based upon what you have posted previously. That said their specs are 600w RMS and 1200w Peak. We'll come back to this in a moment.

Tlsheff :crazysmile: is right in that a good four channel amplifier designed to be able to bridge into two channels would work just fine provided it was wired correctly.

Why do you feel the need to run the amplifier at 1ohm. Most amplifiers including D-Class Amps are designed to run at 4 or 2ohms for optimal performance. Not to get long winded but suffice to say the amplifier will run in 1 ohm but will do one of two things it will either cut the amount of power you are seeing in output drastically or it will simply shut down. Many think that because they are digital they won't go into thermal shutdown they can and will if pushed too hard. I would take a long hard look at the amplifier and its specs before mating it up to those L5'*. You need a good amplifer that puts out about 1200 RMS into 4ohms and you will not see a performance difference if you run it in 4 or 2 ohm loads. Make sure the amp is CEA 2006 rated for power and I would also scrap the Sychosound amplifier and go with a RF, MTX Memphis JL something along those lines for the system the Sychosound is more of a flea market brand and not to diss your choice too much but if checked on a bench test it would not be putting out the same amount of power it is rated at I see this almost daily. In the long run you will pay a little extra but will have something that you can drive hard for hours on end and not worry about any issues, also with these brands or even Kicker you could go with a little lower power rating like a 1000RMS for the two subs and still kill it and I mean your hearing that is. I have been competing and selling this stuff for 20 years now and with subs you need a few things to have great bass. CLEAN Amplification, a well built purpose built box for the sub you have not a prefab unless a manufacturer pre-fab, and a good subwoofer that is driven with enough power. What you have is very nice as a starting point and you have spent a fair amount of money already but you need to put the right amplifier to them to maximize their potential.

What brand by the way is your brothers amplifier?
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