Rear Speaks -

Remove the rear seats, bottom first then top. There are three plastic retaining push in bolts (like on the door panels). Remove them then the whole back dask should be able to come out. Dont feel silly I destroyed my first set of grilles as well.


Front Speaks-

Staying with the 5.25 is a good idea. Its quick and easy and you only lose a little low end. Later a sub should fill that back in.

Tweets-

Alright, I have to admit this is the first suck job I've ever heard in regards to speakers I'll let you know if I stop giggling. Whatever it takes, I just wouldn't be so forthcoming in later episodes. I have had success using chewing gum. You chew it, put it on a stick, stick it to the dome and pull. Double sided tape works too. I also tried pulling the dome off of the magnet, but dont recomend it because it never sounded good again. I think the coil was rubbing up against the magnets.

Just be careful what tape you use. If its to sticky you might rip the dome of the tweeter.

last night i spent 3 hours changing the 6x9'*. i was able to get the grilles off without breaking them AND without taking the rear seat out. i took out the tweeter and reached inside the back to undo the one clip. then i used a long rod and popped each clip with it. it took me an hour to get the first grille off. i never thought of taking the seat off though......that probably would have been easier.. ill try the tape thing later on, hopefully i dont ruin the tweets. as far at the sucking thing, i tried that on home speakers i had once , only i used a vacuum cleaner. DONT try that. another thing, if i added a sub later on, would the air pressure in the trunk damage the 6x9'*?

I don't think they will damage them but it will affect them. Think about the sub hitting them with a wall of air as they are trying to come back. You'd probably have to seal them from the subs.

That just depends on how loud you play your bass. If its mild it wont hurt them to bad, but if you like you bass deep & loud then yes you willhurt them.

ok so how would you suggest that i seal them off? i have boxes for the speakers but how can i make them fit? with the way the rear deck is, to seal them off i would have to cut out a hole big enough for the boxes? is there something you can buy to do this?

Thats one way to do it. Any aftermarket head unit will put out atleast 3x the power the stock ones do. The gain control is just a volume **** fo the woofer of the factory 6x9'* (you mighta noticed two speaker leads going into it, you better splice those or you aren't getting a full signal btw).

The SSE'* have a black plastic box which covers the 6X9'* in the trunk. A OEM ported box if you will. I would take that box down. Cover the inside with fleece material (about $20C a meter) to cover the whole in the bottom, and fiberglass it. Fiberglassing is not as hard as it sounds. I would also try to seal the top of it where it mates to the metal with gasket seal.

how much of a difference does the 2nd set of wires make? am i really losing that much? i just finished putting the speakers in and i dont want to take them out and re-solder. will they cause any damage if they are not hooked up? i noticed that the original woofers have two voice coils, a 4 ohm and a 10 ohm, if both were hooked up to a single 4 ohm load, wouldnt that overload the amplifers?

Heres a cheap & easy way of doing it.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd..._ID=5848&DID=7