Found out why the front channels also go INTO the amp but not out. It'* so it can average front/rear fade levels, average them, and amplify the subwoofer signal appropriately.

That way fade has no effect on bass output.

What in the Cig lighter? If its something you don't mind moving or getting rid of you would locate the boost gauge there?

Got my extensions spliced onto the harnesses for the implant:




And I got things opened up to look for space for either component. Here'* the right side:



And as I was about to shoot the left, I noticed something (while remembering the HUD controls cutout in the other dash trim bezel to the right of Danica'* nipple):


Do you see it? Here'* the back side of the non-HUD bezel where it would go:


Is it in the line of sight? Here'* my true view while driving:


And a better look at what I'll be carving out:


And what it will be like in the HUD-equipped trim bezel. I'll hack this one because it has the depression and cutout for the bass gain control in the oem location already (gotta swap vents between them though, cuz myfirstbonnie has one of the vents from this one ):





During normal operation, I'll easily see my peak boost just below the tach. If I smell trouble, I just have to lean forward a bit to see the peak 'vacuum'.

UPDATE:

I began wiring yesterday, and got about half of it done. I just discovered two snags:

1. There are considerable wiring color differences between 93 and 95 amplified/subwoofer/tweeter systems. Just about everything OTHER than the front door speakers. This is requiring some quick translation work by me (which is why I printed out the 95 amplified and non-amplified schematics in 13x19 format to make notes on).

2. One of 4 wires is missing (and the female pin from the connector) from the donor car. This wire must have been snagged by something in the trunk at an earlier point, as it wasn't there when I salvaged the speakers, grilles, connectors, amp, and gain control from the donor (93) car. I'll make do with a little fix for that here.

The GOOD news is the wiring will be for the most part identical between the two cars when I'm done, rather than standardizing on the 95 (which it'* going into).

Darcy would not be impressed with your wiring job Crimp connectors? where is the solder and heat shrink tubing!

Heat shrink is coming. And this is the beater, not the Zilla.

(double crimping before I close it up)

All shrunk, taped, and loomed up. Deck back in, Amp wired with gain control, and rear sub function verified with a Voltmeter (on AC).

It'* all down to the boost gauge and rear speaker install (rear deck cutting). All OEM speakers are now functioning again.

Where'* the love?

Guys, it'* a pretty easy thing to upgrade an SE to the SSEi stereo including rear subs, amp, and bass gain control on the 92-95'*.

Everything is in but the rear speaker grilles and tweeters, I need to cut the rear deck. Works like a champ. Pics and video coming.

i was waiting for someone to try this...

so you need a gain control, the amp and speakers? not a head unit that was originally equipped with the amplified system?

The head unit makes it EASIER if it'* OEM, but not by much. I retained my factory amplified system in the Zilla when I upgraded the HU.

I just upgraded the factory amp and gain (and speakers) on the SLEeper to match.

Uploading pics/vid.