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Audio (and aftermarket electronics) This is your place for alarms, remote starters, to brag about your system, exaggerate your db levels, or simply ask questions for stock or aftermarket audio. No Flames! (except from roasted amps)

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Old 08-18-2011, 06:16 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by sseidriver97 View Post
ok so steve may know about subs and amps but honestly is not to knowledgeable in actual auto tech beleive me ive met him...

second yes you have struts and if its really an SLE should be air struts..And holy crap 250 i do shocks/struts for 75 bucks for two....
No Dakota just thinks he knows more than he really does
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Old 08-18-2011, 09:14 PM   #22
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Thanks for the insight steve..

I hope you can get your struts done easily they can be a PITA..Also aftermarket guages are usually a little more accurate if that is something you would want to install so you can monitor it closely..with your sbs and all
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:31 AM   #23
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Time for MY two cents. lol. Last year I changed the front shock assemblies and the rear air struts. Used Monroe Quick Struts on the front (pre-built shock/strut assembly). Picked up a set of rear air struts from Autozone for $64. To be honest, I was SHOCKED at how easy it was to change to air struts. The hardest part was removing my sub system. Once the trunk was empty, it only took about 45 minutes to change both sides. I'm sure it could take longer, but it was pretty simple, mainly due to the fact that the strut and spring are totally separate in the rear.

While I was at it, I also upgraded the worn rubber sway bar bushings (body and end-link) to polyurethane. Changing just one corner at a time was funny as hell. She'* a little over ten years old, and it was all stock. After changing just one of the front assemblies, she looked just stupid. There was such an extreme tilt in the front end since the old springs were SOOOO worn. Now with all the new suspension components and firmer bushings she handles GREAT! MAJOR improvement! Good luck to you!
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:16 AM   #24
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the problem for us who live up north is everything you touch is corroded together and has to be beat out or torched
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:27 AM   #25
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Yeah, I am originally from Michigan, so I most certainly feel for you there!
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Old 08-29-2011, 07:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GXP Venom View Post
Volt meters in cars are good for reference and lame for accuracy. And never read the same car for car. What your seeing in the Bonny is the voltage regulator at work. It is normal for it to slide in voltage as the battery is charged to capacity, To constantly charge a battery on high voltage only burns them out. You can't conquer voltage drop by upping the voltage when adding audio equipment. It is the amperage deficit that causes the drop. With the big 3, and second battery in the trunk you should be fine. If it takes the Bonny 10 minutes for the voltage to settle (and it should settle) you may have a leaking rear shock. That would cause the air compressor to kick on without the key on.
Ok so I took her to my regular mechanic who checked her. He told me he doesn't see air shocks in the rear of her. I don't know what to think now. lol. He said if I bring him the parts, he'll do it for $120. I get the parts for what the store pays for them since my cousin works there.

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ok here is the thing... ur gonna see the highest voltage at startup.. cause thats when the car idles the highest.. it will level off as the car warms up and the idle drops...

start with doing your big 3 upgrade and a Nice battery under the hood...

just cause the battery says 14v doesnt mean it will rest at 14v... it just means it can hold up to 14v... there are also 18v car batteries... made for competitions mainly tho... if u got any more audio questions let me know
What kind of XS should I get for under the hood? Which one will fit? I'm asking you because we have the same car pretty much and you know more than me. lol

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Ya the air struts (shocks) are almost always on SLE'*. You can see the difference by the rubber collar and obvious air lines. $250 is crazy. I think rockauto.com seels the for $50 a piece.
I guess I'll have to throw her on the lift and check her myself. Ugh :/

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Thanks for the insight steve..

I hope you can get your struts done easily they can be a PITA..Also aftermarket guages are usually a little more accurate if that is something you would want to install so you can monitor it closely..with your sbs and all
How would I go about installing an aftermarket gauge?
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:14 PM   #27
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You probably don't need a permanent aftermarket gauge, you could use a digital multimeter and test it. A permanent aftermarket gauge would likely just need a good ground and then a tap into any switched positive line.
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Old 08-29-2011, 08:16 PM   #28
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You probably don't need a permanent aftermarket gauge, you could use a digital multimeter and test it. A permanent aftermarket gauge would likely just need a good ground and then a tap into any switched positive line.
I wouldn't mind an permanent aftermarket gauge. Especially if the dash isn't reliable. lol
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