14.4 Volts?
08-16-2011, 08:47 PM
#11
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even tho ur AQ amp has 2 pairs of speaker terminals it is still a monoblock (1 channel amp) it just has 2 pairs for wiring ease.. both + terminals connect on the inside same with the negatives..
My DD system is similar power wise.. 1000rms all the time no matter what voltage (11v-14.4+) or ohms (1.5-4) so i know whats needed to make ur electrical stout with ur setup...getting batteries that have side and top post makes things easier as well
just hold off on the second battery for now..
and Venom... i have learned alot about car audio in the last 5 months... and my car sits at 14.2V at idle and with stereo at full tilt.. havent blown anything.. but have procrastinated in the past..
My DD system is similar power wise.. 1000rms all the time no matter what voltage (11v-14.4+) or ohms (1.5-4) so i know whats needed to make ur electrical stout with ur setup...getting batteries that have side and top post makes things easier as well
just hold off on the second battery for now..
and Venom... i have learned alot about car audio in the last 5 months... and my car sits at 14.2V at idle and with stereo at full tilt.. havent blown anything.. but have procrastinated in the past..
That'* what I would like, for her to sit at 14.2- 14.4 volts at idle with the system on. lol
08-16-2011, 08:50 PM
#12
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Guess you got the Big 3 handled well then Steve. And keep in mind there is a voltage regulator and how and why it functions. hehehe.
If it takes 10 minutes for the voltage to settle every time, there is a fault. It should be fixed as it ages the battery and sooner or later your going to wake up to a dead battery. Do you ever happen the hear the compressor kick on while car is just sitting?
If it takes 10 minutes for the voltage to settle every time, there is a fault. It should be fixed as it ages the battery and sooner or later your going to wake up to a dead battery. Do you ever happen the hear the compressor kick on while car is just sitting?
08-16-2011, 09:07 PM
#13
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I would use a multimeter on the voltage after it settles before I got worried. The voltage regulator is solid state and an internal of the alternator . It really can't be altered. The best you could do is put a smaller pulley on it and that will give you more amperage at lower RPM'*.
08-16-2011, 09:08 PM
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Guess you got the Big 3 handled well then Steve. And keep in mind there is a voltage regulator and how and why it functions. hehehe.
If it takes 10 minutes for the voltage to settle every time, there is a fault. It should be fixed as it ages the battery and sooner or later your going to wake up to a dead battery. Do you ever happen the hear the compressor kick on while car is just sitting?
If it takes 10 minutes for the voltage to settle every time, there is a fault. It should be fixed as it ages the battery and sooner or later your going to wake up to a dead battery. Do you ever happen the hear the compressor kick on while car is just sitting?
08-16-2011, 09:14 PM
#15
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It'* kind of a low buzzing hmm in rear. When it kicks on and your in the car it will sound like it coming from under the rear seat. I will also ad here that if your battery is on it'* way out, but still "functional", it could be a culprit to slightly low voltage when the regulator eases off.
I would definitely have him look at the shocks, it'* common for a older Bonny.
I would definitely have him look at the shocks, it'* common for a older Bonny.
08-17-2011, 05:58 PM
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It'* kind of a low buzzing hmm in rear. When it kicks on and your in the car it will sound like it coming from under the rear seat. I will also ad here that if your battery is on it'* way out, but still "functional", it could be a culprit to slightly low voltage when the regulator eases off.
I would definitely have him look at the shocks, it'* common for a older Bonny.
I would definitely have him look at the shocks, it'* common for a older Bonny.
08-17-2011, 10:33 PM
#17
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ok so steve may know about subs and amps but honestly is not to knowledgeable in actual auto tech beleive me ive met him...
second yes you have struts and if its really an SLE should be air struts..And holy crap 250 i do shocks/struts for 75 bucks for two....
second yes you have struts and if its really an SLE should be air struts..And holy crap 250 i do shocks/struts for 75 bucks for two....
08-18-2011, 11:17 AM
#18
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Ya the air struts (shocks) are almost always on SLE'*. You can see the difference by the rubber collar and obvious air lines. $250 is crazy. I think rockauto.com seels the for $50 a piece.
08-18-2011, 03:08 PM
#19
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i wouldnt do it for any less than 250, i had to use the torch on both spindles and the really bfh. and make sure you budget for an alignment after too
