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Old 03-03-2006, 03:49 PM   #11
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great job very help full
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Old 03-05-2006, 05:16 PM   #12
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Hi thought I could add on to ARCHON who was a fantastic help for fixing my regulator.My cables in my regulator had to be replaced as the were all tangled up in pulley and sled.Still cant figure out pics so heres my best shot
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/SUC50541.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/SUC50544.jpg
This is how the cable looked (bad pic)
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/SUC50542.jpg
This how the pulley looks ,it got pretty chewed up as it is just plastic.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/3a048c22.jpg
This is the throttle cable I bought from a store called Princess Auto for a $1.49.You have to cut of the anchor on the end to be able to thread it through certain holes.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/SUC50613.jpg
This is what I used for new anchors , I got them from work but you need good strong anchors and a nut to be used as shown in next pic.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/SUC50607.jpg
This is in the sled ,you need something to anchor and put pressure on the spring in my case a nut and anchor
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/SUC50606.jpg
Here it is before it is installed in sled
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/SUC50609.jpg
You can see here I have my cables threaded and have the ends anchored,these are just crimped on.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...n/SUC50616.jpg
And the final product
The throttle cable seems to work better but may not be as strong as it is about 1/16 thinner than stock cable.I also put silicone lube on the end window rubbers as I found the window was tough to move up and down even by hand which I think contributed to the failure.Hope this turns out and someone finds it useful .Not bad for about 4 bucks as I had to buy 2 throttle cables(4ft each).IIRC one cable is 34 " (outside) other inside sled cable is 20" but make sure you measure.
Again this fix I owe to ARCHON as his details and pics led me to understand my repair.
Dealer wanted $600 for part and my mechanic wanted about $220 used part installed but could not find one anywhere in Ontario.
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Old 03-05-2006, 08:04 PM   #13
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I have not had the problem yet but I am betting I will pretty soon. I have bookmarked this thread for future use. Great job on documenting the problem and an inexpensive fix.
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Old 03-06-2006, 01:50 AM   #14
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Outstanding work JDQ. Looks good.
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Old 04-24-2006, 11:02 AM   #15
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Default Rear driver side went last night

Hi guys......I'm new to the club, and greatful that there are other folk out there that have the same identical frustrations with their bonnie as I do. I do a lot of my own repairs when thing break. Although the other rear window just broke about 8 mos ago, and I had no clue or direction as to how to repair it. The cost was $321 out the door.....which seems to be somewhat of a deal from the other prices i see you guys coming back with! And this was a Chevy deal that did mine to boot! .....But the sad reality of it is that I dont have the $300+ again to blow on a damn window that is used a dozen times a year if that. I don't mean to sound stupid.....and I don't think anyone said so or not......but when we do this fix......is it able to function as a workable power window again?????? In my mind all I care about is that it won't rain inside my car, and really don't care about functionality. Is it too good to be true.....or can $2 really make my window work again? BTW....those are awesome pics and descriptions as I am about ready to undertake the fix. Thanks to all!!!!! Tony
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Old 04-24-2006, 11:06 AM   #16
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With Archons fix..the window is back to 100% operational. As well...he hasn't had his fix break to date.
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Old 04-24-2006, 07:57 PM   #17
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Yes go with Archons fix, what I did to mine lasted a month and a half I need to add the steel peice now.The plastic on the sled needs the reinforement but it is easier than it looks when you get it apart and Archon is a great guy and will answer any questions.I may be able to answer some.
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Old 04-24-2006, 11:15 PM   #18
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So far, three repairs are all holding. If someone is ambitious enough, removing that black cover and replacing it with the metal bracket could be used as a preventative measure, not just as a fix. The plus of that is that doing it before it breaks will prevent the cabling from becoming cobbled up. This happens when you naturally try to roll the window up and down after the cable breaks.

Someone, (BiilBoost) accidentally/on purpose piqued my curiosity by asking if it could work on the front regulators also. So far, we haven't had those fail in the same way, but I'll be checking into that as time permits.
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:38 PM   #19
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Just as a heads up, my fix worked like a charm and has been holding for over 2 years and a half. The only variation I did was cutting the metal brace on a side, not the bottom for the cable to go through... and I closed it off a bit after the cable entered as well.

Great How-To Archon!!!!
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Old 10-25-2009, 10:54 PM   #20
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Very nice write up thanks for the info
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