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Old 02-21-2006, 11:12 PM   #21
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3/4 inch is ok, if you dont want to wonder anymore about engine movement you can go solid motor mount.
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Old 02-22-2006, 07:15 PM   #22
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Are the side motor mounts actually oil filled as well? Given your response and reading the other posts on this board, Im assuming you are referring to the front mount that everyone seems to go with solid.

This is how I was told the mounts are named... well at least by the dealership.

the front mount by the radiator is considered the front transmission mount.
the rear mount closest to the firewall is considered the [b]rear transmission mount.[/b]
the leftside mount by the drivers side wheelwell is considered the left motor mount
the rightside mount by the passenger side wheelwell is considered the right motor mount
I have replaced both of the transmission mounts.. I was wondering how much movement should I see in the motormounts ( located by the wheelwells)
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Old 02-22-2006, 07:22 PM   #23
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Yes..Squid...many go solid.. it causes a little more feeling in the car..but doesn't blow out in record time again.
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Old 02-23-2006, 07:38 AM   #24
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Hey Squidly,

If you don't like engine vibration, don't go with solid mounts; you'll be making a bad situation worse.

I'd start by cleaning out the throttle body and the EGR; they're both easy to do and might make a big difference with your idle. Also if one of your drive accessories is bad, can cause a vibration.
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Old 02-23-2006, 08:56 PM   #25
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Ok, I havent cleaned the throttle body or the egr valve yet. i have however just changed the fuel filter and the pcv vavle. ( took me a half hour to find it....lol)

Any tips on how to clean these??

My next step will be to clean these 2 items. Im not too disapointed yet. everything that i have changed so far has equalled a basic tune up.. I think the car was due for these things anyway. so no money wasted yet..

the belt was off the car when i changed the water pump.. I restarted the car once the pump was replaced without the belt on thinking just what you were thinking that it might an accessory. But, the vibration is still there.


I did notice one other thing that is a bit odd. I can feel the vibration pretty much throughout the car at idle, especially on the front tires. I felt all around all of the engine/tranny mounts, and cant feel it there. So, Its not getting transmitted through the mounts. or atleast doesnt appear to be. Im just not sure where its coming from.. I am taking to the dealer next week.. oh yeah, I put up on a hoist and couldnt find anything rubbing anywhere. everything is in place and it all looks good. I though maybe i had a heat shield rattling or something, but no good there.

thanks.
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Old 02-24-2006, 02:28 AM   #26
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Quote:
Any tips on how to clean these??
First you get new gaskets for the EGR and TB.

Get TB cleaner and some lacquer thinner for the EGR. Lacquer thinner removes carbon real well.

Get some ScotchBrite, acid brushes, and a toothbrush. Go at it best you can. You'll know when they're clean inside; they'll go from flat black to shiny metal.

Oh ya, drain the radiator before pulling the TB off; makes for a little less mess. Good time to change the Dex-Cool too.
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Old 02-24-2006, 08:32 AM   #27
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Only use TB cleaner on the TB, and make sure it says sensor safe.
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Old 02-28-2006, 07:52 PM   #28
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all cleaned, vibration is still there. and getting worse.

I just got back from the local GM dealership. The mechanic seems to think it might be something inside of the transmission causing the vibration. He did state however that he is not their transmission person, and the transmisson expert that they have is out for a few days. I'm going to be out of town for 2 weeks so i wont get it looked at until then by the "transmission expert". the other problem i have is this. I have a new key fob ( there wasnt one when i bought the car) and had to get it programmed. The key fob is good, the is equiped with the keyless entry, but the car wont accept the fob. The mechanic seems to think something is wrong with the car. Also, there is no power to the OBD. He had to use the cigarette lighter socket. Anyone ever have this problem??

So here are my questions.

Has anyone ever had a torque converter go out? if so, what does it do when it goes?
I did notice one other oddity that i hadnt noticed before. When im driving and i let off of the gas, it holds the rpm there for about 10 seconds, then drops to idle. If i get back into the gas before this, the car reacts fine, but if wait until it drops to idle, i get a clunk.. Could this be a torque converter on its way out?
I changed the fluid a little while ago and it was dark, but not burnt or odd smelling. I took apart the filter and there wasnt any visible signs of wear, no big pieces of metal or anything. just a few pieces of what looked like rubber sealant, probably just from when it was new.

well.. as always.. any info will be greatly appreciated.

thanks.
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Old 02-28-2006, 10:39 PM   #29
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What do you mean no power to OBD.Could he not scan it.Things that made my cars ive had shake before - Egr , plugs and wires not good, vacuum leak. How does your exhaust react with the shake or vibrate.
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Old 03-01-2006, 06:45 AM   #30
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There was not any power going to the OBD for some reason. The mechanic had an adapter that plugged into the cigarette lighter that he got the power he needed for the scanner, so the car was scanned.

The exhaust is good and intact. its not hitting anything anywhere. This is a definate vibration.. not really a shake. What i mean is.. its a rapid vibration. thats about the best i can explain it..
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