I did not find any pieces, it looks to me like it was wore away though, not broken off in a big piece. My guess is it was slowly wearing away and floating through the oil in very small pieces that hopefully got caught in the oil filter. I changed the oil while I was at it, it didn't look strange by any means, it was fairly dark, but that'* normal. Would I be correct to assume if the front cover had that much foam, the back will as well?

LIM gasket was perfect, I'm fairly certain all or most of that buildup is from the last couple days, because I've never noticed it on the underside of the oil cap before. I forgot to pull the fuel pump relay and while I was testing relays for the IC Pump accidentally pumped some fuel right in there. I'm concerned about the rest of the engine as well, so I may need to do a seafoam procedure on it once I get it all back together.

If you have a set of gaskets, may as well do both.

I want to make sure this valve cover install goes as flawless as possible so I'm looking for any tips/ tricks you guys have. It looks like I've got oil seeping from both valve covers so I'm going to do them both. The front one is a piece of cake to get to, the back is what I'm worried about.

It looks like as long as I can get the wiring out of the way, and remove the alternator, I should be able to get the rear one off. Anyone else know differently?

When I'm fitting the new gaskets on, should I rub some oil on them so they seal correctly, or tighten them down dry?

For RTV do I just need to put it on top of the gasket near corners etc, or should I get it under the gasket?

89 inch pound torque on the valve covers, anyone know what the torque on the nuts that hold the tensioner for the SC on should be?

I think that'* about it, any useful information would of course be appreciated.

No need for RTV, just make sure it'* clean. Check in the general info area of tech info. The torque settings is listed there.

Tom..

Being a 2000+ you'll want to pick up a set of coolant elbows (in case). The 2000+ has a tensioner/alt bracket that overhangs the valve cover in the rear. You will want to drain off some coolant and after removing the alternator, pull the bolts for the tensioner to wiggle it out about an inch or so. This is a good time to replace those coolant elbows if you haven't already. Usual cost is around $4 for Dorman part number 47065.

Another tip is to remove the map sensor bracket/EGR heat shield. That will open the rear cover up nicely.

Then the only issue still in the way is the engine cover/O2 bracket. This is held on to the exhaust studs by 13mm nuts. You can safely remove these w/o worry of loosening the exhaust. Removing this bracket temporarily allows you to torque the bolts for the valve cover properly. Or a universal would help..but torque wouldn't be exact. (NOTE: many 00+ owners leave this bracket off, as it makes plug changes much easier.)

Thanks Bill.

I'll pick up both of the coolant elbows, way to cheap to risk not having them and needing them.

My engine cover / O2 is already laying in the trunk, so that'* not an issue.

Thanks for the tips! I'm feeling good about this one.

HA I told ya it would have to come off

Yea I know... I was hoping there was a way around it but couldn't quite tell. Looks like I'm buying another jug of coolant.

Don't feel bad Tom.. I own a 97 that wears a 2000+ tensioner assembly. I like the fit of the tensioner for the Gen V and intercooler over way I shaved an alternator to fit with the 97 version, but I hate that the darn thing overhangs the valve cover.

Yes, I chose self torture.

hehe. Well, hopefully I won't be messing with the valve cover for a LOOONG time. I went ahead and got the aluminum valve covers, they should be a little more reliable. Also got them powder coated black, should look pretty good.