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Old 11-18-2014, 10:07 AM   #11
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A tip on bleeding it, I have heard a good way is to drill a 1/16" - 3/32" hole in it, and install the thermostat with the hole in the 12 o'clock position, just be sure the hole is inside of where the gasket goes.
Many will say it is not necessary, but I drilled a 3/32" hole in my 195F stat, and in the winter it still heats up fine, and bleeding it was easy.
The factory OE stats had a small hole with a ball/check valve, but that is not totally necessary.
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:28 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1995 View Post
If your careful, your only going to create a bubble in the upper hose when you remove it. Then carefully remove the t-stat housing, replace the t-stat, reinstall everything, remove the radiator cap, top off, start car, allow it to get to operating temp(which might take a awhile) and re-top off. As long as you are not taking coolant below the top of the block, pockets won't occur.
Ok sounds good. Thanks for you help. Seems easy enough, was trying to find the torque specs for torquing the bolts back down on the thermostat. I looked in tech info but unless I'm blind I couldn't find anything. Does anyone know?
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Old 11-18-2014, 11:30 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilliamE View Post
A tip on bleeding it, I have heard a good way is to drill a 1/16" - 3/32" hole in it, and install the thermostat with the hole in the 12 o'clock position, just be sure the hole is inside of where the gasket goes.
Many will say it is not necessary, but I drilled a 3/32" hole in my 195F stat, and in the winter it still heats up fine, and bleeding it was easy.
The factory OE stats had a small hole with a ball/check valve, but that is not totally necessary.
What'* the hole in the t stat do? Seems pretty easy to do. Gonna do it at work inside during lunch.
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Old 11-18-2014, 03:43 PM   #14
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It is an air bleed hole, and I have tied a thermostat without a hole and with one drilled.
Trapped air in the system was greatly removed with the air bleed hole.
I used a Delco 195 degree thermostat.
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Old 11-18-2014, 06:59 PM   #15
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Well got it fixed and problem solved. Both ends of the tubes that I talked about before which were cold now is warm after it warms up to 200. She runs right at 200 now before. It ran just a few clicks below 200 before because the 180. I took it for a drive in town I got to about 205 therm must of opened and went down to 200 and stayed steady. Lost about a pint of coolant but worked the bleeder valve until all air was out. I noticed it kicks out some warmer air because of the 195 therm I put in. The other therm and gasket was in rough shape. Thanks for all the help and input. I'll post again once I get done with work.
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Old 11-18-2014, 07:27 PM   #16
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Glad it is working well for you now, thanks for updating us.
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