Where have you guys gotten your poly bushings from?

Oh and the idle speed isn't an easily changed parameter unless you've got a pcm editor...

I got mine from NAPA. Universal Body mounts. 3/4" thick x around 3" dia. I had to ream out the bolt hole to fit the bolt but they come is sets of two (another reason for using 2) and work perfectly.

You can reuse the original mount lock nut or double nut for security.

just a tip, before having the solid mount fabricated (I used some turned aluminum) measure the height of your existing mount as it is in the car now. I found that mine needed to be a little taller than Silver Bullets and my not paying attention caused a small leak at the rear exhaust manifold gasket. You know what they say "haste makes waste". Do your due dilligence and enjoy the mount.

Sorry but I have to disagree with Zuluhead about the effect of +/- 1/4" really making any difference to affecting rear manifold seal.

Possibly the stock flex connection is not as flexible as the new TOG flex.

So thats even worst to have the stock mount? Its always moving and it stress that manifold seal? :?

Too bad, my mechanic is off for holidays, i got to wait till next friday...grr :)

edit: By the way, thank you silverbullet and rrounds for all the info and happy new year all !!

:beerchug:

The stock mount allows for an acceptable amount of movement to reduce the vibrations felt in the cabin. This works in conjunction with the flex pipe that's part of the exhaust. The stock mount is good for the purpose it was designed for, but most people can live with the slight vibrations created by the solid mount for the benefits it provides.

The problem I had was that my mount wasn't as tall as my original mount and when I tightened it down it put too much strain on the exhaust manifold and created a small leak.

Silver Bullet can disagree with me on this if he likes, I respect him and heartily thank him for the help he gave me when I did mine, but I haven't come up with another reasonable explanation (maybe my flex pipe isn't as flexible as it should be or the leak was already there and this just made it more noticeable) for why I developed the leak immediately after installing a mount that was smaller than the original.

Point is, I believe, as do many others, that a solid mount is a good thing. I will simply caution people to make an effort to create a solid mount that is approximately the same size as thier stock mount.

When you changed your mount, you may have over stressed the connection by overextending the engine. That is, it may have dropped too much and pulled on the manifold connection.
Remember that the stock mount moves a lot more than the difference in height between your two mounts.

WHY SOLID ENGINE MOUNTS ?

Didn't GM go through alot of trouble designing hydraulic mounts to keep the vibrations away from the occupants ? :shock:

as i can see, when you are accelerating there is no load on the mount, right now my mount is very bad, i can ear sometime a "TIC" when i accelerate, the engine is moving too much.

But when im on load, it is only hold by the bolt of the mount(if im not wrong) its like there is not mount at all, i feel no vibrations on load.

Everything is a compromise....performance vs luxury.
You see the difference between the not as luxury oriented GTP and the more luxury type Bonne engine mounts? GTP uses rubber while the Bonne uses an oil filled rubber dampener.
The downside of not feeling any engine vibration is an engine that flexes. This flex reduces drivetrain tightness ie. the reaction time getting power to the wheels. It also allows so much movement that it is hard on inlet and exhaust tubing.
Another benefit for me was it allowed me to use the GXP strut tower brace and not have the engine flex enough to contact the alternator.