YOu are getting the misfire when the */c kicks in because that is WOT and where your ignition system sees the most load, not because there is a relationship between the */c and the misfire. You already changed the spark plug wires, did you change the spark plugs. A spark plug with a cracked ceramic insulator will do exactly what is happening on your car. It arcs when under full load.

If you think its an injector, you might want to try a cleaner like Sea Foam. Throw some in the fuel tank. You also might want to swap injectors with another cylinder to see if the misfire moves with the injector.

What is your fuel pressure running at?

I have sea foam and 44k in the gas right now. The spark plugs are less than a year old (replaced in July or August). I'm going to wait to rotate the injector until I get a code reader again. I will try the new spark plug though, since it'* next on my list. If the injectors or the spark plug don't work, it'* off with the top end to see if it'* internal (cam, lifters, valve springs, etc.) since there was a sighting of metal shavings stuck to the magnetic bolt the last oil change. That was originally ruled as normal wear as they weren't really that big, but it still has me worried. Also, don't know if it'* important, but the car is now up to 131K on the odometer, so it'* still kinda young in my opinion for that.

I am almost willing to bet its a spark plug. Bad fuel injectors and internal engine issues tend to give misfires at all operating ranges. Arcing from a cracked ceramic insulator on a spark plug tends to happen only at WOT. There are certainly exceptions to every rule, so we won't know for sure until you rule it out.

Well, if I don't have to work today, I'm gonna look at it again and possibly get a new one just to be sure. Should I go ahead and replace them all? or just the bad one?

It is always good to replace them all if you have time, but definetly replace the problem child as soon as possible. Also keep in mind the plug wires may be brittle and may break off when pulled. Twist them before removal, and use a plug boot removal tool if you have one available. Also be prepared to replace the plug wires- I broke a plug wire when replacing the plugs a while back.

Also- if you haven't, check the plug wires where they plug into the coils. Takes less than one minute to check all six, and you might discover corrosion on coil #2 to be the culprit. Corrosion where the coil meets the plug wire gives the same results as a bad spark plug.

Finally,I believe spark plug 4 is the hardest to get to.

I can officially say that the problem is solved. I took out the spark plug on cyl. 2 and it looks like there was some arcing going on. The top of the spark plug had a chard section around the base. It runs like a champ right now. It also was gapped to .065. I talked to Gunner and he said that I should gap all of them to .055 with my known mods, and because of the fact that this car has always run really rich. Now that this is fixed, I noticed one of the coolant elbows is leaking now, so I guess that'* next on the list to fix. Thanks everyone for all the help!

Glad to hear you found, and fixed, it. Nice to know it was an inexpensive fix. If you decide to replace all the spark plugs, buy some dielelectric grease and use it at the coil and at the plug ends. It keeps moisture out, prevents corrosion, and makes it easier to get the boots off without tearing them next time.

Good to hear you found it, I'll mark as fixed.

Thanks, I'll do that when I replace them all again, we put some on the last time, #2 was just baked on at the metal part of the spark plug(plug felt fine, but wasn't fine). I guess it was time to replace the wires, I think they were this cars 2nd set ever so they were past due. It'* a good thing I'm going to school for auto mechanics, so I can quit pulling newb stunts like this lol. No more letting someone else do it with me watching. much easier that way to fix it if something goes wrong.