Keyless Entry Distance
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Guys / Gals, the Older systems 90-95 was rated for 23-30 feet.. some were better than others...
The 96+ had better range, and 50 ft seems to be the norm for most... But with age the systems do fail( Gets weak may be better wording )...
On my 91 SSE I can get about 50ft off from it and it'll work when the system is not being tempermental...
On the Factory system I installed on the 95, 30Ft seems to be about it with any module I have tried... again some better some worse..
But again the newer cars do have better range than do the older systems..
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The 96+ had better range, and 50 ft seems to be the norm for most... But with age the systems do fail( Gets weak may be better wording )...
On my 91 SSE I can get about 50ft off from it and it'll work when the system is not being tempermental...
On the Factory system I installed on the 95, 30Ft seems to be about it with any module I have tried... again some better some worse..
But again the newer cars do have better range than do the older systems..

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It will deteriorate over time. My 96 used to be just as far as my GXP is now (about 50ft unobstructed; 20 obstructed). I have taken car of the key fob; regular batteries, etc. however I have to be within 10 feet of the 96 for it to lock/unlock anymore.
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From: Tampa, Florida, USA

Originally Posted by two bonnies
It will deteriorate over time. My 96 used to be just as far as my GXP is now (about 50ft unobstructed; 20 obstructed). I have taken car of the key fob; regular batteries, etc. however I have to be within 10 feet of the 96 for it to lock/unlock anymore.
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Have you all tried another FOB? If you have the same issue with either FOB than the MALL Module may be kicking the bucket... You 96 + Guys and Gals got more complicated.. But the system works in a simmilar manner..
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Hey -- guess what!
This thread got me thinking - so I popped open my bad keyfob to see if there was anything that can be done to it.
I found cold solder joints. One was on the component (capacitor?) being pointed at in the fuzzy pic below. The other was on one of the terminals of the battery holder. Both were very obvious - I could poke at the component with a pencil and wiggle it back & forth and the battery holder had a visible crack in the solder.
I re-flowed the solder joints and now this keyfob works at 40~50 ft again!
I guess I got lucky - quick, easy, free fix.

EDIT: The one with bad connection was the orange rectangular one in this vicinity.
This thread got me thinking - so I popped open my bad keyfob to see if there was anything that can be done to it.
I found cold solder joints. One was on the component (capacitor?) being pointed at in the fuzzy pic below. The other was on one of the terminals of the battery holder. Both were very obvious - I could poke at the component with a pencil and wiggle it back & forth and the battery holder had a visible crack in the solder.
I re-flowed the solder joints and now this keyfob works at 40~50 ft again!
I guess I got lucky - quick, easy, free fix.

EDIT: The one with bad connection was the orange rectangular one in this vicinity.
The picture is too fuzzy to be able to tell what the component is. However, the important part is where it is located, and what problems you found and corrected. It could prove quite useful. Thanks for posting that.
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Yes those little boards can only take soo much abuse 
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