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Old 02-05-2006, 08:30 AM   #1
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Default It'* not the wheel hub bearing...

Medium Pimpin' developed a problem last week. It started to shake between 45 and 60 mpH. My first reaction was to rotate and balance my tires. It still shakes.
I noticed that it is not as pronounced when you let off of the accelerator or floor it. I noticed that the shakes (and the growl) also dimishes when turning right (at higher speeds). I knew that my passenger front hub was failing. I thought that it may have been really worn and that it would stop when I replaced it. All'* quiet now, but It still shakes.
I have checked for warped rotors, loose suspension components, etc. to no avail.

Monday afternoon I will get it up on the lift and go over the suspension with a fine tooth comb, and give it an alignment. I don't have a lot of faith that I will diagnose the problem at that point.

Does anyone have any ideas for things to check?
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Old 02-05-2006, 08:31 AM   #2
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Default hubs

I changed my passenger front hub today. Firstly, I would like to thank everyone who has posted information on wheel hub replacement/diagnosis. I have read about 2 dozen threads on the subject here. I would like to consolidate some of it now.

This task is not terribly difficult; it can be done in about 45 minutes.
  • What you are going to need is:
  • jack
  • 19mm lug wrench or equivalent
  • 1/2" drive breaker bar (I used my "monster" 24 incher)
  • 1/2" drive ratchet
  • 15mm socket (for caliper)
  • 13mm socket (for hub mounting bolts)
  • 34mm socket (for drive axle nut)
  • torque wrench (there is no excuse for not using one)
You are also going to need something (wire hanger) to support the caliper, a 10mm wrench for the caliper bleeder valve if your rotor is heavily scored, and a medium-sized whomping tool. I prefer the mini sledge (my personal favorite for suspension work).
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
I haven't done a 00, however typical GM FWD is straight forward
Support
Pull wheel
Pull caliper and disc (ensure you support caliper weight and don't let it hang on the hose)
Pull axle nut
Holes next to lug nut studs allow you access to the bolts for wheel bearing
I think they make the wheel bearing bolts as torx
That is probably the most straightforward procedure for replacement. While there are holes next to the lug studs, they are not used on the bonnie; the hub bolts up from the backside.
Quote:
Originally Posted by markwb
Shawn, here are some torque specs for you. Wheel Bearing/Hub Bolts - (70 lb ft), Drive Axle Nut - (118 lb ft), Wheel Nut - (100 lb ft) hope that helps a little.
Thanks, Mark.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PontiacDad
That top center bolt is my favorite, you never feel like you have a good hold of it
True, true…
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Old 02-05-2006, 01:30 PM   #3
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Default

Maybe cupped tires?
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:01 PM   #4
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Nope, tires are good. No belt transfer or separation, no cupping or wearing, and they balance just fine.

That was the first things I thought to check.
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Old 02-06-2006, 11:43 PM   #5
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Its not the tie rods or any other suspension component that I checked. Everything is good and tight now.

I did change the right outer tie rod end - it was toast (probably from the vibration).

I am beginning to think CV joint more and more. It does'nt have any of the tell-tale CV symptoms. It doesn't click when turning; the boots are not damaged. I will pull the half shafts tommorow. I hope I am not right.
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Old 02-06-2006, 11:46 PM   #6
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Mostly under acceleration, could it be your harmonic balancer?
How does the tranny feel?
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Old 02-06-2006, 11:58 PM   #7
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Good idea, Dad.

How do you check the harmonic balancer? Wouldn't that knid of problem be evidant at certain RPM ranges, regardless of speed?

I breifly entertained the tranny idea, but it feels as it always has.

I just had the tranny serviced (along with half of everything else, i.e. brakes, cooling sytem, power steering, fuel system, etc.) in December 2005 at the local dealer during its 92k, 97k, 101k, and 105k (ish) sceduled mainenance.

I just don't want to shell out another $900 up there. I generally do my own car repair, but sometimes I find myself to busy for general maintenance (hence the frequent trips to the dealer).
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Old 02-07-2006, 12:23 AM   #8
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Its attatched to the crank, follow the accesory belt down to the main pulley in the center. There should be no movement up down or side to side. You can have some one lightly push the throttle while you inspect for any movement.

Another to check is tranny and motor mounts.
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