Crank sensors usually don't go out the way you described. They usually are a nuisance for months before the final break down. They usually throw codes over and over. You get some stalling with no problem restarting. The tach will drop out ocasionally. If you didn't ever have a check engine light in the past then this seems not to be a crank sensor problem....

Hmmm. Do you have any ideas on what it could be if its not the crank sensor. Is there any way to test the crank sensor before we replace it????

No way to test it other than looking for the codes..... It'* very surprising that you do not have any codes with all the problems you had. Maybe a re check is in order. Depending on who checked the codes for you.

I'm standing by my statement that we don't see many codes thrown for failing crank sensors.

Most shops & do-it-yourselfers will not have the equipment to check the crank sensor signal. A dealer should be able to check it but the checking will cost more than the sensor.
Some autoparts stores can test the ICM but the results aren't very reliable. The best way to test the ICM is to try it on another car with the same engine.

Before changing the crank sensor let'* make sure your battery is putting out 12 volts & see if the how much the voltage is dropping while cranking. I'm assuming the car is cranking over strong. How old is the battery? Strange things can happen before a battery dies completely.

More often than not, the crank sensor will not throw a code. If someone has a scanner that can watch the 3x signal from the crank sensor they might be able to view a problem.

Mine had the code very often and for months before I replaced it. I've read quite a few posts on this board where people had the code for crank sensor and it actually was the problem. And on the other hand, I haven't seen one reported bad crank sensor without a code. All I'm going by is my personal experience and what I've read on this board in the last six months.

There have been several reports on the board of stalling/no start that was the crank sensor without having a code. I am not going to spend them time searching them out. That along with my personal experience is that the crank sensor often will not throw a code. We are trying to help a member with a problem, and to say that a crank sensor will always throw a code, so if the code isn't there can be ruled out, is simply inaccurate and does not help the poster with the problem.

OK I did take the time to do a search and at a rate of 4 to 1 they throw a code. So you are correct in saying they don't always throw a cdoe. And in the interest of helping people, it'* wrong to say they rarely throw a code or usually don't throw a code. I was wrong saying that they always throw a code. Wait a minute. I didn't say that did I? What I said was that it was surprising that it didn't throw a code.

Before doing anything with the crank sensor, other than perhaps checking with a scanner, check out the electrical connections. This is the last page of the thread by 2000SilverBullet that PDad mentioned, that shows the solution to his problem. It'* a good place to start. You may want to skim the thread to see the symptoms.
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=asc&start=120

Also check the positive connection, under the red cover, to the underhood fuse box, as well as the 3 bolts that hold it down. Then, work to the under seat fuse box, and check the connections there. You may want to take the connections apart, clean them, and reconnect with dielectric grease. One thing to pay close attention to is where the negative battery cable attaches to the floor pan under the seat. Take that apart, clean the bolt and thread in the floor real well, and reconnect after applying dielectric grease.