Ideally, we'd all have lifts in our garages... But I know I don't have anywhere near enough money (or garage space) to put in a lift.

I use an hydraulic floor jack to raise up the front of the car and place floor jacks under the front subframe right just to the inside of the tires. I then jack up the back end of my '01 (if there are older years reading this it may be different) by using a block of wood and placing the jack under the upside down 'U' shaped structural member in the center of the car between the rear wheels and jack it up. If I already have the front end supported on jack stands, I don't have any more stands (only have 2 stands) to put on the back end so I typically leave the jack underneith and go to work. You should have already broke the lug nuts loose prior to putting the car up (while the tires are on the ground) and you shouldn't have to do much muscling of bolts to really rock the car on the center supported rear. This is if you really need to have all 4 wheels off the ground at the same time. The only reason that I would have all 4 up is when I'm rotating the tires. All other times, I only have 1 end of the car up at a time and then I would use stands on whichever end is up.

I've never used a torque wrench on lugs before... i just hit them with the impact and let it go. I never had once had a problem with that. I could be wrong though, but my boss has been doing this for 35 years and he worked for GM so i just do what he said.

Well, here'* what just happened when I put on my summer rims. I had left my torque wrench at my dad'* so I didn't have it to torque the lugs. I tightened them down with a breaker bar trying to be careful. After putting the rims on, I noticed that I had some brake pulsation that wasn't there prior to putting on my summer rims. I was able to get my torque wrench the following week. When I checked the torque, it was well over 120 ftlbs and that was with me being careful with my 20" breaker bar. Retorqued them to 90 ftlbs and all is well, ie. no more brake pulsation. I make it a point to always check the lug nut torque with an actual torque wrench after anyone removes my wheels.

The caliper is solidly mounted to the hub and the rotor is sandwhiched between the hub and wheel. If the torque on these nuts are not balanced you run the risk of warping the brake rotors or in extreme cases take out a front wheel bearing.

I agree completely. Especially with the 92-99 bunch. Get a torque wrench. Be anal about it. I carry a cheapy torque wrench in the trunk with the right socket for this purpose. If I'm home, I use the good torque wrench.

Are the chrome lug nuts on my 04 Bonneville really lug nuts or just caps like the black ones on my 95? I tried to pry one off on sunday and it would not budge. If they are caps do I need a special tool to remove the cap?

umm.... ok...over torqueing will cause the pulsation??? cuz when im goin like 60+ and brake...it shakes like a ******..... could that be my problem?? or is it just that my tires need to be balanced??

Typically, if you have a shake when braking, but not noticeable other times, its a brake rotor issue not a tire balance one. It never hurts to check your lug torques. Just reset them.

alrite...damn it... there goes more money ill have to search now on some good rotors and padds thanks!!

It wouldn't hurt to pull the rotors and check them when everything is apart. Most places like Napa or the like can turn rotors for about $5 or so. If they are too thin, it is easier to find out that way v/* getting it all back together and having it shake your dentures out. Plus, it gives you a chance to check your bearings, hubs and brake lines. I have never bought rotors yet for mine, but when I do put new pads on, I am going to follow the same procedures as mentioned on this site. They are very helpful.