Does anybody know how to change the front and rear brakes - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 04-19-2005, 11:30 PM   #1
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Default Does anybody know how to change the front and rear brakes

Does anyone know how to change the front and rear brakes on the 2000+ bonnies? If so can I get instructions on how to do it? It would be much appreciated.
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Old 04-20-2005, 01:33 AM   #2
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Step 1: Open the hood and take the cap off the brake reservoir. If you have refilled the reservoir because it was low during normal wear, you will now need to remove some brake fluid until the level reaches to the LOW fluid level marking. If not, while compressing the piston with the C-clamp, the fluid will spill over into the engine compartment and if it touches anything painted, will cause the paint to bubble and peel.

Step 2: Place jack-stands under the car on all 4 corners to raise all 4 tires off the ground. Make sure that the car is STABLE, SECURE and safe before starting work. If it takes a little more time to get this part right, then take your time. Refer to your manual for proper jack placement.

Step 3: Remove the plastic lug nut covers and remove the bolts. Remove tires and place out of the way.

Step 4: Remove the lower bolt that holds the caliper in place and slide upwards. This exposes the brake pads.

Step 5: Remove the brake pads and (optional) with a paper towel or tack cloth, wipe it around the rotor (disc) to clean away any loose surface dirt or dust. Take the time and note how the old pads are placed into their positions. Note that the one with the "feeler" (the feeler is a small metal tab that causes that squeaking sound after brake pad wear nears it'* limit) goes on the back of the rotor.

Step 6: Using the C-clamp, compress the piston in the caliper to make room for the wider (and newer) brake pads.

Step 7: Place the new brake pads into position.

Step 8: Lower the caliper over the pads, paying attention to not damage the small rubber boot that the bolt goes into.

Step 9: Use some grease around the bolt and replace it into its hole and torque to 40 ft/lbs (I've done this approximately by hand without detrimental results). Use the 15mm socket on the front calipers and 14mm socket on the rear calipers.

Step 10: Replace the tire, put on the lugs BY HAND (to prevent it from cross-threading), and tighten as much as you can, comfortably.

Step 11: After repeating the same process at all the other wheels, lower the car to the ground and now tighten the wheels using a torque wrench to 100 ft/lbs. Do not use an air wrench, they're almost always too tight and can easily strip the bolt.

Step 12: This step is crucial! Before going ANYWHERE with the car, engage the parking brake (hand-brake) and start the vehicle. Now slowly pump the brake pedal at least 3-5 times. The first 2-3 times the pedal may seem very soft and go all the way to the bottom. Keep pumping until the pedal is nice and firm.

Step 13: Take a look at the brake reservoir and add fluid if needed. If not, replace cap on the reservoir securely.
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Old 04-20-2005, 08:15 AM   #3
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I just have one ammendment to that proceedure. I have always been told that with ABS systems, that you do not want to force the fluid from the calipers back through the system. The calipers are the lowest point in the system and as a result end up with all of the crap in the system in them. When it comes time to push the piston back into the caliper, I like to take a little piece of hose and put it on the bleeder screw. Then open up the bleeder and push the piston back in. It is also much easier to push the piston back in this way. Then close off the bleeder and go about the rest of the proceedure. The short section of hose not only keeps the brake fluid going where you want it, it also keeps air out of the system by keeping fluid around the bleeder.
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Old 04-20-2005, 01:56 PM   #4
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thanx i'll get right on it and let you know how everything went.
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Old 04-20-2005, 02:09 PM   #5
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very good explanation!!!

however,

Quote:
Step 10: Replace the tire, put on the lugs BY HAND (to prevent it from cross-threading), and tighten as much as you can, comfortably.

Step 11: After repeating the same process at all the other wheels, lower the car to the ground and now tighten the wheels using a torque wrench to 100 ft/lbs. Do not use an air wrench, they're almost always too tight and can easily strip the bolt.
i dont understand this, did you explain this correctly....

lower the car to the ground with the lug nuts only hand tight??

i have always have them torqued properly before letting car down....
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Old 04-20-2005, 02:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harofreak00
very good explanation!!!

however,

Quote:
Step 10: Replace the tire, put on the lugs BY HAND (to prevent it from cross-threading), and tighten as much as you can, comfortably.

Step 11: After repeating the same process at all the other wheels, lower the car to the ground and now tighten the wheels using a torque wrench to 100 ft/lbs. Do not use an air wrench, they're almost always too tight and can easily strip the bolt.
i dont understand this, did you explain this correctly....

lower the car to the ground with the lug nuts only hand tight??

i have always have them torqued properly before letting car down....
what i think he meant, which is what i do... hand tight them, than lower the car so that the wheels are touching the ground(so they dont spin), but the car is still supported by the jack stands and than finish tighting them up........
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Old 04-20-2005, 02:36 PM   #7
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I normally tighten the lugs down by hand as tight as I can, then put the torque wrench on while holding the tire. Typically I cannot get the lugs anywhere close to the proper torque, but it is tight enough to remove the stands and let the car to the ground. I then back the car up (or move it forward) about 10-15 feet, and then back to where I had it. This is to make sure that there isn't any binding in the suspension from being let down (the wheels need to move out a bit after just being in the air). Then I torque the lugs down.

Typically after a day or 2 I check the torque again to make sure that I didn't miss anything as well as to make sure that the torque was correct.
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Old 04-20-2005, 02:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swartlkk
I normally tighten the lugs down by hand as tight as I can, then put the torque wrench on while holding the tire. Typically I cannot get the lugs anywhere close to the proper torque, but it is tight enough to remove the stands and let the car to the ground. I then back the car up (or move it forward) about 10-15 feet, and then back to where I had it. This is to make sure that there isn't any binding in the suspension from being let down (the wheels need to move out a bit after just being in the air). Then I torque the lugs down.

Typically after a day or 2 I check the torque again to make sure that I didn't miss anything as well as to make sure that the torque was correct.
now that makes sense...

im used to using my dads air tools with the special torque socket, and then torquing with torque wrench, and then letting it down the hoist...
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Old 04-20-2005, 03:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harofreak00
im used to using my dads air tools with the special torque socket, and then torquing with torque wrench, and then letting it down the hoist...
Yes, when you use an impact, then you don't have this problem. You still should move it atleast 1 full revolution of the wheel before you torque the lugs down for the final time to make sure that everything is in its proper place.

And ALWAYS re-check the torque with an actual torque wrench after using an impact, even if you used a torque stick extension.
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Old 04-20-2005, 03:46 PM   #10
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great info! dumb questions... where do you best place the jack stands? and what are you using to raise and lower the vehicle?
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