car "jerking" -UPDATED
I recently bought a '00 SSEi with 65,000 miles. While driving home from the dealership, I experienced the surging problem several other people have described. I initially suspected the trans and changed the fluid and filter with no improvement. After some research, I decided to change my stock spark plugs to NGK TR55s and replaced the wires with Delcos. At the same time, I also cleaned the cables as instructed throughout this forum. At first the problem seemed to be gone but came back within a couple of days. Shortly after, I also found that the transmission was shifting very hard after sitting at idle in traffic for extended periods of time. I began to suspect the trans again and after more research found that the pressure control solenoid and/or TCC valve could be causing my problems. Sonnax has produced a "sure cure kit" for the 4t65-e. According to the company, this kit addresses all known deficiencies for this transmission - including the PCS and TCC valve. While searching for more information, I stumbled across the instruction manual for their kit in PDF format. On page 2, I found this in the tech tips:
"Fluctuating RPM with TCC applied can be eliminated by cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor and disconnecting computer for several hours to clear memory".
After finding this, I decided to give it a try. I bought of can of MAF cleaner, disconnected the battery - again cleaning the cables - and cleaned the MAF according the directions on the can. While I was under the hood, I also checked the resistance on the coil packs, cleaned the terminals that connect to the primary windings (which were not that dirty), and applied a small amount of dielectric grease to each one. After leaving the cables disconnected overnight, I reconnected them and drove the car expecting no change. Instead, almost a month and 3,000 miles later, the problems have not returned.
"Fluctuating RPM with TCC applied can be eliminated by cleaning the Mass Air Flow Sensor and disconnecting computer for several hours to clear memory".
After finding this, I decided to give it a try. I bought of can of MAF cleaner, disconnected the battery - again cleaning the cables - and cleaned the MAF according the directions on the can. While I was under the hood, I also checked the resistance on the coil packs, cleaned the terminals that connect to the primary windings (which were not that dirty), and applied a small amount of dielectric grease to each one. After leaving the cables disconnected overnight, I reconnected them and drove the car expecting no change. Instead, almost a month and 3,000 miles later, the problems have not returned.
Glad to hear you found a solution. I got a new 02 sensor and some plugs sitting on the shelf for when it gets above 30 degrees and will be inspecting the MAF and ICM at that time.
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Originally Posted by 1994se
Glad to hear you found a solution. I got a new 02 sensor and some plugs sitting on the shelf for when it gets above 30 degrees and will be inspecting the MAF and ICM at that time.
i think i will change my other o2 and clean the MAF at the same time. im also going to replace my "redneck fixed" vacuum line with a new one from the stealership. this time, im going to make sure i disconnect the battery.
edit: what would you use to clean the maf without damaging those fragile wires on it?
I used a can of CRC MAF sensor cleaner from the local O'Reilly parts store. Disconnect the MAF and remove it from the TB using a T20 security torx bit. Spray inside the sensor through the two openings (there are 2 sensing elements) and let it dry THOROUGHLY before you reconnect everything. Make sure not to touch the elements with anything - even the straw from the can. I also wouldn't recommend any compressed air.
Not sure if anyone ever went back and looked at my thread that I have linked in this topic. My issue has been resolved.
The issue was the throttle position sensor. $55 on a new one and the car is 100% back to good now.
The issue was the throttle position sensor. $55 on a new one and the car is 100% back to good now.
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cool, ill get the maf cleaner and clean it when i take the supercharger off again. ill still change my o2 sensor(because its still throwing a code) and ill try the TPS if that dont fix it.
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update: just changed my lower o2. i was happy for a few minutes. the code was gone and it ran good. but when i test drove it, it started to die again.
now the code is back again.
i guess ill try the throttle position sensor, then i may just save up money and take it to the stealership, because im out of ideas.
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also, i noticed today that sometimes i will be pressin the gas more and the rpms are stuck for a couple seconds. its sounding more like a tps. ill get that and a new vaccum line on friday. hopefully that will fix it.
highly suggest checking/replacing the TPS. You would be surprised how many issues a faulty TPS can bring on. Erratic shifting, idling issues, jerking, hesitation..so on. With the price of the other parts you have thrown at it so far, it would be worthwhile to check it (if anyone knows a procedure to do)...or replace.


