Brakes
#11
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
If you have a choice of the cube or a tool that says "most GM". Choose the cube. (experience talking..and if anyone needs the other..just holler)
Odd how Stan had all those pictures handy..lol
Odd how Stan had all those pictures handy..lol
#12
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Warren MI
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When I did the rear brakes on a 2000 LeSabre, I just used a needle nosed ViseGrip plier to turn the piston back in. Just spread the plier open and put the two tips of the plier on the piston face indentations. It was 10PM and no one was open that had any special tool to buy or rent.
#14
When I did the rear brakes on a 2000 LeSabre, I just used a needle nosed ViseGrip plier to turn the piston back in. Just spread the plier open and put the two tips of the plier on the piston face indentations.
I did the same thing. Turns real easy as long as it isn't corroded.
#15
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the rear
I am a bit confused...I am trying to do my rears on a 2000..I know the deal about the c clamp no more than 1mm which is the thickness of a dime..my question it how do I get caliper open and what line do I unscrew? it says to remove a bolt for something but there are three attached to the drivers side rear of my SE... I do not want to take off the wrong one and have fluid everywere. I think once i can open my caliper and pull out my pads I can get the piston in with my needle nose pliers...autozone wanted $40 rental fee for the tool.... Please help me so i can get this done tomorrow...new years eve day... so i can watch my hoosiers in their bowl game.....
TIA
Shane
TIA
Shane
#16
RIP
True Car Nut
I'm not sure where you're running into a problem. Did you go to the link in the second post, and click on the rear pad replacement? There is only one bolt holding the caliper onto the bracket...the lower one. Remove that, and swing the caliper up. Do not remove any brake lines...just remove the bracket that holds the emergency brake cable to the control arm. Hopefully, that answers your questions?
#17
I didn't know either before looking it up in the service manual.
The beauty of this design is you don't have to disconnect the fluid line or even remove the caliper for that matter.
The caliper pivots up after you remove the bottom caliper bolt.
You will have to loosen the parking brake cable under the car on the drivers side and disconnect the parking brake cable attachment bolt to allow the caliper to swing down.
Then you simple pull out the old pads and pop in the new ones.......after turning the adjuster plunger all the way in.
The beauty of this design is you don't have to disconnect the fluid line or even remove the caliper for that matter.
The caliper pivots up after you remove the bottom caliper bolt.
You will have to loosen the parking brake cable under the car on the drivers side and disconnect the parking brake cable attachment bolt to allow the caliper to swing down.
Then you simple pull out the old pads and pop in the new ones.......after turning the adjuster plunger all the way in.
#18
Junior Member
Posts like a Ricer Type-R
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Archon
I'm not sure where you're running into a problem. Did you go to the link in the second post, and click on the rear pad replacement? There is only one bolt holding the caliper onto the bracket...the lower one. Remove that, and swing the caliper up. Do not remove any brake lines...just remove the bracket that holds the emergency brake cable to the control arm. Hopefully, that answers your questions?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post