Anyone else have problems with shaking?? *UPDATE*
#21
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Been here done this....
It'* the wheel bearings (and others here will concour)
I've dumped nearly 1200 bucks in breaks and tires
and still had the faintest of waller happening.
Starts about 50-55 and stops around 70.
Even after new rotors & shoes....
(it'* was the rear breaks that really added to the wobble
and was NOT noticed that much during breaking)
swapped my fronts out first (Slots!) and was suprised it still wobbled
changing the rear breaks - almost stopped it - then new
tires (mich) and it was faint'ly still there
- front passenger wheelbearing -
Since the shaft spline runs thru the bearing you really cannot
"feel" the slop by moving/shaking the wheel assembly by hand.
These are costly parts think it was 350 or so PER SIDE just
for the bearing at a local napa (sorry I dont do cheapo 'zone)
So after new rotors / breaks around and new tires all around
the waller was tolerable at speed. The fix here was the bearing
and I had this trouble since day one with the car.
Stop wasting time on the Hunter machine playin' wheel balance
it'* not such an easy way out!
And the rear bearing aint cheap either but I bet you dont realize
it'* just a few bolts holding the whole rear wheel assembly on!
Good luck
It'* the wheel bearings (and others here will concour)
I've dumped nearly 1200 bucks in breaks and tires
and still had the faintest of waller happening.
Starts about 50-55 and stops around 70.
Even after new rotors & shoes....
(it'* was the rear breaks that really added to the wobble
and was NOT noticed that much during breaking)
swapped my fronts out first (Slots!) and was suprised it still wobbled
changing the rear breaks - almost stopped it - then new
tires (mich) and it was faint'ly still there
- front passenger wheelbearing -
Since the shaft spline runs thru the bearing you really cannot
"feel" the slop by moving/shaking the wheel assembly by hand.
These are costly parts think it was 350 or so PER SIDE just
for the bearing at a local napa (sorry I dont do cheapo 'zone)
So after new rotors / breaks around and new tires all around
the waller was tolerable at speed. The fix here was the bearing
and I had this trouble since day one with the car.
Stop wasting time on the Hunter machine playin' wheel balance
it'* not such an easy way out!
And the rear bearing aint cheap either but I bet you dont realize
it'* just a few bolts holding the whole rear wheel assembly on!
Good luck
#22
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Originally Posted by HowY
These are costly parts think it was 350 or so PER SIDE just
for the bearing at a local napa (sorry I dont do cheapo 'zone)
for the bearing at a local napa (sorry I dont do cheapo 'zone)
#23
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
Well point them in a direction for a cheaper source... give up the link...
I needed it on a weekend and got what was on the shelf....
I remember it being over 300 like 330-350 out the door
---[ edit ]----
and the whole biil was... just checked the recept...
126.00 per side front hubs
Sorry (I was cursing the whole bill which had some wife parts!)
So 260.00 for the pair (june of '06)
I needed it on a weekend and got what was on the shelf....
I remember it being over 300 like 330-350 out the door
---[ edit ]----
and the whole biil was... just checked the recept...
126.00 per side front hubs
Sorry (I was cursing the whole bill which had some wife parts!)
So 260.00 for the pair (june of '06)
#24
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
Expert Gearhead
Originally Posted by HowY
Well point them in a direction for a cheaper source... give up the link...
I needed it on a weekend and got what was on the shelf....
I remember it being over 300 like 330-350 out the door
I needed it on a weekend and got what was on the shelf....
I remember it being over 300 like 330-350 out the door
#25
Senior Member
Posts like a 4 Banger
I dont either Bill...
But they already been the rounds with breaks and tires
that kinda leaves it to the bearings - another design wonder!
I bet break rotors first 'cuz these cars seem to chew them up
waller most noticed during breaking...
wheel balance usually creeps in at lower speeds 40+ and either
runs out at speed or gets violent and obvious.
This shake is well described in the post 55+ stops over 65/70
Same symptomology - vibration at freeway speed 50-55
runs thru around 65/70 and gone
Bearing
Believe me I WISH break / tire would have resolved it
But the hubs are a shade tree repair was not too rough a procedure
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=58942&start=0
I spotted this one a while ago and I only posted "integrated bearing" and guess
that fixed this one too....
I'm not tryin to be a smart a$$ just seems a lot of folks are dealing with this issue
and it'* frustrating - a wheel bearing failure at around 60k is NOT ordinary but
it IS typical of these cars. It cannot be determined my normal means due to
it'* design
Fixed it here anyway FWIW
But they already been the rounds with breaks and tires
that kinda leaves it to the bearings - another design wonder!
I bet break rotors first 'cuz these cars seem to chew them up
waller most noticed during breaking...
wheel balance usually creeps in at lower speeds 40+ and either
runs out at speed or gets violent and obvious.
This shake is well described in the post 55+ stops over 65/70
Same symptomology - vibration at freeway speed 50-55
runs thru around 65/70 and gone
Bearing
Believe me I WISH break / tire would have resolved it
But the hubs are a shade tree repair was not too rough a procedure
http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...=58942&start=0
I spotted this one a while ago and I only posted "integrated bearing" and guess
that fixed this one too....
I'm not tryin to be a smart a$$ just seems a lot of folks are dealing with this issue
and it'* frustrating - a wheel bearing failure at around 60k is NOT ordinary but
it IS typical of these cars. It cannot be determined my normal means due to
it'* design
Fixed it here anyway FWIW
#26
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Severe?
Originally Posted by MACDRIVE
Although extremely rare, torque converters have been known to be out of balance causing vibrations; but in such an instance, vibrations are severe.
#27
RIP
True Car Nut
Absolutely, the hubs are something to be considered, but as Bill mentioned...we don't want people running out and buying parts before some good troubleshooting has been done. This has been a problem with several causes. For some, it has been tires, for others rotors, or balance, or wheels. Good troubleshooting before buying parts. I'd disagree on the speed where wheel balancing is an issue, also. 40 mph is often the starting speed for that...not the end.
I came across this the other day...seems to be a good explanation of causes and fixes for vibration caused by balancing issues.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/wheel_balancing.htm
I came across this the other day...seems to be a good explanation of causes and fixes for vibration caused by balancing issues.
http://www.aa1car.com/library/wheel_balancing.htm
#28
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I have never seen an out of balance tire that could be determined by braking.
Also, we are failing to recognize the axles as a possibility. I specifically remember seeing a thread here that a CV shaft was the cause of a similar shaking issue.
And based on my experience, wheel balance issues usually start to show around 50, get to peak severity around 65 and start to smooth out over 70.
I would have to agree that if you have had your tires and wheels double or triple checked, car aligned WELL, not just within specs, but very close to perfect, suspension triple checked, then 90% of the time it will be a hub or an axle problem
Also, we are failing to recognize the axles as a possibility. I specifically remember seeing a thread here that a CV shaft was the cause of a similar shaking issue.
And based on my experience, wheel balance issues usually start to show around 50, get to peak severity around 65 and start to smooth out over 70.
I would have to agree that if you have had your tires and wheels double or triple checked, car aligned WELL, not just within specs, but very close to perfect, suspension triple checked, then 90% of the time it will be a hub or an axle problem
#30
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Ok so I took the car to Pontiac yesterday and they said my tires (which like I said before are brand new) are fine, the brakes are fine, the suspension is fine, the hubs and axles are fine, and the biggie here, the balance of the tires are fine. He told me that they have had quite a few bonneville'* in their shop in recent months, some brand spanking new off the showroom floor, and some used that have had the problem. According to Mr. GM Tech Shooter Problem Guy, there is no known reason on why these cars do this. He did say there are connectors to the frame that have been the culprit to the vibration on Bonneville model years 00-04, but they have no solution at this time for the problem. So I guess either they are blowing smoke out of their a$$es because they have no freakin clue what'* wrong, or they are right. Me personally...I'm not sure.
Off subject real quick though...I am getting a new hood for FREE installed and painted next week since under mine is nicely bubbled, rusted, and painted over. (bought that way). So yay on that...
Back on Subject....So yeah...should I believe these yuppies at GM or what?
Off subject real quick though...I am getting a new hood for FREE installed and painted next week since under mine is nicely bubbled, rusted, and painted over. (bought that way). So yay on that...
Back on Subject....So yeah...should I believe these yuppies at GM or what?