So ive read alot of the issues that people have had but cant connect their fix with mine. I have a 2000 bonni and my driver door window stopped working this spring. I figured it was the window regulator so I replaced both front ones since they were getting slow. That didnt fix the drivers side so I got a driver door module and that also didnt fix it, ive checked the fuses and also not it. Whats happening is when I push the switch you can hear the module click on and if you hit the auto down it clicks on then clicks off after a second kinda like my burned out heated seat does. Any ideas?

I am having the same issue, I checked it today in the shop I work at. So fall the only issue that I can fine with probeing the harness connector, is that it has no ground when you hit the up or down button, when it should have, the ground is alternating in the connector, All the other techs at my work figure its the modual ( work at a mazda dealer and no one else drives a GM) So if you find a solution I would like to know

anyone have any ideas about this issue??

You can use a voltmeter to check for 12vdc at the motor connector. It should read +12 with one direction of the window switch, and -12 with the switch in the other direction. If you have voltage, your motor is hosed. The clicking sound is the relay which tells you the switch is at least trying to work. The contacts on the relay may be bad, in which case you'll hear it pull in, but nothing will happen.

Just a thought,

GregB

I was thinking about the relay as well, there is voltage coming from the connector, and the motor is ok, had it hooked straight to a battery, and worked.
And if it is the DDM, is there a special way to install/programming, or is it just plug in and everything works?

the DDM is plug n play

Are you saying you measured 12 volts being supplied to the motor connector? Then if you hooked the motor up to another 12 volt supply and it worked, then I question the relay contacts. I actually have a relay contact cleaner that looks like a miniature metal nail file.

This is similar to a car battery with a bad connection. You'll read full voltage under no load condition, but as soon as you put a load on it, the voltage will sag as the bad connection restricts current flow and the device (starter, window motor, etc) won't operate.

Sorry for the delayed reply, as I was out of town since last Thursday.

GregB

Isn't the relay for the window motor soldered into the DDM? or is there another relay that I don't know about?

Well now that my old post is back to life I guess ill give an update. After replacing the driver door module, window regulators and tryed another wire harness I gave up and took it to the dealer. $130 and an hour later it ended up being a broken positive wire in the floor between the rear fuse box and the driver door.