you're reading my mind, I actually stopped and picked up the crank sensor last night, it'll be a good 4th of july weekend project. Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll keep the info updated as things change.

To remove the balancer, you'll need 3 bolts M6 x 1.00 pitch and at least 75mm long. Our balancers have holes in them...but such an odd size almost no pullers come with it.

Isn't there some kind of badge or something you get when you successfully break free the harmonic balancer bolt manually.. JEEEZZZZZZZZZZZZ got impact wrench but it didn't cut it. 12" breaker bar helped along with a 36" pipe wrench.. and I left my guts on the floor, wife will complain about that I suppose.. on to the puller..

crank sensor replaced and car started on second attempt with no gas which is not bad I thought for a power down, idled for about 2 minutes very smoothly, then quietly died.. Time to Zen while I ponder my next move.

QUESTION on TPS reading: I did the resistance check and it was nice and smooth, then I asked how the computer knows what signal from the TPS means the throttle is closed:

The answer seemed to indicate zero volts = closed.. if I take a voltage reading across the bottom and center wires, at full close I am reading .78 volts, and at WOT I am reading 4.57V

SHOULD IT REALLY BE READING ZERO VOLTS AT CLOSED ?

Yeah..zero at close is right.

Do this.. unplug the maf and while the car is going to be choppy and run bad for the first couple times.. try that. The problems you are having are tough .. let'* eliminate one thing at a time even though you replaced most of this stuff already.

I'm regrouping, this should not be so hard.. had to work on my passat over the weekend too, got spoiled.. hooked up my VAG. told me engine coolant sensor was intermittently shorting.. now actually changing it was still a pain, but at least the computer pointed the way.. I just looked at the bonnie and sighed..

I did a lot of research on the PCM and the control systems, watched some great video'* showing how the cam and crank sensors control spark and injectors.

I tried unhooking the MAF, many times, car will still die.. I did order a replacement MAF and TPS, shotgunning it.. I am going to take another look at the CAM magnet.. I checked it once and swore I saw it, but like an idiot I didn't check it when I replaced the crank sensor, would have been easy..

I'll check that again while waiting for parts to arrive.. fortunately don't need the car for work.

after several hard starts and stalls, I idled the car for 20 minutes no problem, shut it off and restarted, and it immediately stalled.. that'* why I'm taking another look at the cam sensor.. from what I understand the PCM will < guess > at injector timing if no signal.. every start is another guess.

while waiting on some parts to come in (intense ECM), I tried to do some better analysis of the issue. which is crank, fire and die.. one of the things I notice is that when I turn the key:

the fuel pump starts, but the engine does not crank
after the fuel pump times out and stops THEN the engine cranks. and dies.

So.. the question of the day is.. what does the fuel pump stopping have to do with the engine cranking?

never mind that last question.. battery was running low with so many start attempts.. interesting that the motor would not crank until the fuel pump stopped though.. I hooked up my big booster charger from my Wisconsin days and it cranked right over without the pause. still died after starting, so that problem still exists.. wonder if there is a low voltage cutout in the start circuit, or there just wasn't enough voltage to pick up the starting relay..

NEW PCM INSTALLED had to do the security relearn but that went well, car starts and runs, but idles at over 2000 rpm.. the IAC does not seem to be responding..