That'* a good idea. Once your timing resets to the correct place, your KR should drop.

Alright, i know its been some time since i have posted anything on this thread but i have been able to get back around to this issue again. I have ordered a modded PCM from intense that should arrive here tomorrow, i also have put many driving cycles on the new plugs and have run nothing but 92+ octane fuel (Again BP gasoline). I have noticed a gradual difference but it is still not to where i want it. So, that * the reason for the PCM. Since earlier in this thread you guys were talking about tranny knock, i was wondering about installing the tranny false knock kit from intense on my car
INTENSE-Racing.com: Dynamat False Knock Elimination Kit
Has any body installed this on there cars yet? Can this be done without removing anything off of the tranny?

You will have a tough tme installing it on the trans in the car. Not impossible..but tough area to clean with it in the car. I doubt you would get much knock from the trans unless your trans has serious issues.

Hey Bill, you think he might only need a case learn? I thought if it looses the learn it can effect KR. could be wrong. Also, installing a new PCM will require a CASE learn. do you have a member near you that can help with that?

Not that i am aware of, but i started another thread last night about any software available to do the CASE learn with my Auto Tap tool and laptop, come to find out that AutoInginuity can do it (Or so i am told). I am going to go try a CASE learn on my stock PCM in less then an hour from now to see if the software can do it.

I'm the one that told you that. Let us know how it goes. It may help with a lot of KR

OK well i did another test this morning on my way to work (It makes going to work a whole lot more fun LOL). This graph is pretty much a straight line acceleration. Please note a few items first.
1) While doing this test, I can smell gas very shortly after stepping onto the gas pedal
2) This is with the stock PCM, my new intense one arrived today and is now installed, but not for this test
3) During the phase of high misfire, a loud knock can be heard (Approx 15-20 knock sounds per second)
4) The reason cylinder #1 is graphed is because a DTC will be set stating a misfire on cyl 1 after a second or two of the misfire knocking sound.

Upper Graph (Bad PIDs)

Green = Misfire Cylinder #1
Red = Knock Retard

Lower Graph (Standard PIDs)

Red = Vehicle Speed
Green = Engine Speed
Purple = Throttle Position Angle
Blue = Ignition Timing Advance

So i am basically thinking it might be one of these things.
1) O-Rings on the Cyl 1 fuel injector
2) The Cyl 1 fuel injector itself
3) Bad Coil Pack???
4) Vacuum Leak

Any ideas? I do have the ability to monitor any number of hundreds of PIDs with my AutoTAP scantool. So any information that you think i should get, i can graph for you to see. Thanks again guys four your help!

OK, well if it doesn't seem like its one thing after another before, it sure is now. Now when you are in park and slowly rev it up, it will not go past 4100 RPM! Below that in Drive it has plenty of power. Also when you start it up after it has been sitting for some time it will have a very loud knocking sound which appears to be coming from around the catalytic converter. This will go away after about 30-45 seconds. I replaced the O2 sensors (Both), they were do for a change anyway, and since i did the intake gaskets back in January, i figured having burnt coolant go through the exhaust would make them fail prematurely. Could this be the crank position sensor? Im at a loss here as it just seems like this problem will never end. Oh, also i swapped the cylinder 1 and cylinder 3 injectors and the misfire is still the same. I am still getting a code for cylinder 1 misfire and now a code for random multiple misfires. Any help would be awesome, Thanks in advance to whoever can lead me in the right direction!

Well i think after many hours of trying to figure out this problem and many generous replys from everyone on these forums i believe i finally have the problem fixed! I was leaving work on tuesday and noticed a very strong gas smell, i made it about a mile down the road and finally was able to pull over. Come to find out cylinder #3 was leaking gas like crazy! So i shut the engine off and removed the front three injectors from the car (Good thing i had my tools with me). I was able to walk back to work and get a new O-Ring for the nose of the injectors and fully test them to verify they were not going bad. I re-installed them but noticed that the fuel rail connection still had an extremely small gas leak drip coming from it. I was able to drive the car home so i could rest (14 hours at work and then this problem was starting to take its toll on me). Next morning same horrible gas smell except from cyl 5! So i then got a seal kit for the fuel rail itself where it connects into the top of the injector. After a minute of the engine choking a bit from the fuel in the cylinder heads it idled right down and now runs like brand new! No gas smell under heavy acceleration! I have yet to test the KR on my scan tool but it now pulls very hard and easy shifts thru all of the gears, Revs out to at least 5000 RPM (Havent tried WOT yet) where it wouldnt before. So i think this problem is fixed, so, make sure you inspect/replace your injector O-Rings when needed! Thanks again guys for all of your help!