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Old 05-15-2009, 02:49 PM   #1
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Exclamation 2001 SE Suspension replacement

My 2001 SE has 76,000 miles and I'm going to replace the suspension. It now has the FE-1 ride leveling suspension in the rear. I'm thinking of doing Sensa-Tracks up front but the rear is not decided. I asked at the dealer what I would have to do to use the FE-2 and they said I'd need a sway bar and bushings that the SE doesn't have and wondered if I'd need to drill holes for the sway bars. They basically advised against doing the suspension change. I've never ridden in the supercharged Bonneville and don't know what the different suspension feels like. I use the car for local travel and long trips from Virginia to Philadelphia and twice a year to Minnesota. I want to do this soon and could use some advice. Also, what is the best vendor for doing the rear? And if I'm doing the shocks and struts, should I do the ball joints, tie rods and anything else while I'm at it?
Warren
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Old 05-15-2009, 03:40 PM   #2
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To swap over, you'd want the springs off the front struts, springs from the back and both front and back sway bars.

Your SE should have a rear sway bar currently. You'd merely replace it with the other parts.
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Old 05-15-2009, 04:58 PM   #3
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Thanks. Sorry to be a bit dim but if I understand the above I need:
New springs for the front and rear.
A new sway bar up front where none exists with the bushings and linkages as well. That might require some drilling.
That seems like a lot of extra parts in addition to buying the sensa tracks and the rear fe-2 instead of the fe-1. It sounds like it might double the cost of the suspension replacement as opposed to just replacing the front and rear. I thought it might be a good project to upgrade the suspension but perhaps it'* a bit much. Oh well.
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Old 05-15-2009, 05:07 PM   #4
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You have a front sway bar, just not the back one. When I went to a heavier set of sway bars for my 2000 SSEi, I donated the rear one to someone who had a SE. It bolted right up and he said it made a big difference in the handling of his car.
Remember that the front and rear bars operate as a set. Technically, the person I gave the rear bar to should have upgraded the front to match the one on the rear.
I also have to tell you that when I was replacing the front bar, that was the closest I ever came to having one of my cars hauled off and having someone else complete the work.
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Old 05-16-2009, 11:33 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lubben3 View Post
Thanks. Sorry to be a bit dim but if I understand the above I need:
New springs for the front and rear.
A new sway bar up front where none exists with the bushings and linkages as well. That might require some drilling.
That seems like a lot of extra parts in addition to buying the sensa tracks and the rear fe-2 instead of the fe-1. It sounds like it might double the cost of the suspension replacement as opposed to just replacing the front and rear. I thought it might be a good project to upgrade the suspension but perhaps it'* a bit much. Oh well.
if your interested, i have the complete FE2 Suspension off my 03 SSEI with only 40K on it. I upgraded to the GXP suspension

Where are you located, shipping will be tough because the stuff is heavy, BUT its complete with every suspension part you need
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Old 05-18-2009, 02:33 PM   #6
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I'm in southwest Virginia although I head to Philadelphia and Minneapolis regularly (by car).
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Old 05-19-2009, 08:44 PM   #7
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Just wondering if anyone else has any experience of upgrading a 2001 SE suspension.
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Old 04-10-2011, 05:56 PM   #8
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I have an 00 SE with the FE1 suspension. I recently pulled the rear sway bar off of an 00 SSEi at a junkyard. Tried to bolt it up (new bushings) with Moog K6690 end links and it wouldn't fit. The rear sway bar does not seem wide enough for the ends to fall underneath the holes of the trailing arms. I tried to angle the end link bolts, but they were not long enough. I can't imagine that the trailing arms are any different between trim levels - has anyone done this? Which end links did you use? This should have been a "no brainer". The car was on a lift, with all its weight on the tires (trailing arms were in their nominal positions).
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Old 06-04-2011, 04:42 PM   #9
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Update: If the trailing arms are permitted to dangle, then the Moog bolts will work. You can make it easier if you pick up some 3/8" x 6" grade 8 bolts and nuts from home depot. They give you an extra half inch to get the nut on, although you might want to reverse it (nut on top) to avoid ground clearance issues.
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