Did you get the car scanned yet?

Same problem that my 87 had last winter. (I know different series engine) It sounds the same.. when you get to idle is it rough? and stalls out? Maybe your Mass air flow sensor. 200 buxx a pop .

nah...the ses light isnt goin off...gordy said hes gunna scan it w/ his computer

if your car looses alot of power, has trouble shifting, and the rpms have trouble getting up there, only when your car is hot. then make sure your cat isn't clogged!!! this is what happened to me and trust me u don't want the same consequences. i was watching your videos and my rpms were very similar and i had no power. seriously, if it'* like that then change your cat.

I would definately check your fuel pressure before buying a MAF. A lean condition can create a lot of heat, and that is why you see problems at the 220 degree range.. I just screw in a Fp gauge and tape it to your windshield. Drive it around and see if the pressure dropps when warmed up.

Another problem could be your converter, like mentioned earlier.. You would see the converter glowing red and a burning smell usually if this is the case.

Usually it will throw a code if it is a MAF, but it is possible. Your SUpercharger gasket is not "sucked in:" by chance is it?? Usually that would throw a code also. i always checked for the */C intake gasket by spraying some gum cutter at the front of the intake right below the blower.. If the rpms rise when spraying, then the gasket is bad..

Does anyone live near you with a similiar car to just do a quick MAF swap??

junk yard...

I agree. Been there; done that; got the T-shirt...

ok question...if it was a bad cat would it smell like rotten eggs? or smell bad or anything...


hey look...im 1/2 of a certified bonneville nut...my 500th post.!!!!

I've had my cat go bad and this is acting differently....somewhat anyways. Mine didn't smell like eggs or anything when it went. I could tell it was going bad by the honeycomb material flying out the tail pipes.

I will certify you as a full blown nut right now. No need to wiat for 500 more posts!

Not in this case, because in this case the problem isn't that it'* quit functioning as a convertor; the problem is that it'* clogged. It'* not that it'* passing the exhaust through without converting it; the problem here seems to be that it'* not passing the exhaust through at all (at least not very well).

If yours is like mine was, it can push enough exhaust through that the engine can start and run, but as the convertor heats up, the blockage gets worse. You should also see higher readings than normal on your boost gauge, because the intake manifold pressures are higher than they should be. (i.e. lower vacuum than normal, higher boost than normal, tendency to kick down into low gear and surge acceleration through the wastegate or whatever...) Your top speed is probably not much better than 50-60 mph in extreme cases. Any of this sounding familiar?