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1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-15-2005, 03:34 PM   #11
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I would by all means first definately look at the crank sensor. The crank sensor is like $30 from autozone, and fairly easy to install yourself with the right tools. If you had a bad ignition module I would act up all the time, and would cause the car to die once it initinally warmed up. I would rule the ignition module out. If you had a bad coolant temp sensor the check engine light would come on, and the computer would run in an open loop mode for this sensor. Check your crank sensor. The cold water trick sounds like it may work!
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Old 11-15-2005, 11:09 PM   #12
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I'm with vital49, the symptoms are consistent with a bad fuel pressure regulator.
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Old 11-16-2005, 01:11 AM   #13
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Billboost37:
No check engine light on and there are no codes.

Willwren:
My pcm is located under the hood in the same spot as the Bonne’* original position, however it not in the air-filter housing (out in the open on the fender). The VAT system bypass is under the dash.

* Where is the “crank sensor” located and what tools do I need to replace it? *

Plugs and wires were changed about a year ago, and I don’t drive her in the Winter, so I doubt those would be the problem.

I think I will start with the crank sensor, then the fuel pressure regulator, then the ICM.
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Old 11-16-2005, 02:19 AM   #14
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I bet you it'* your crank sensor. Happend to my car too, sounds just like it. I didn't change it myself so I couldn't help you with changing it....
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Old 11-16-2005, 08:14 AM   #15
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Personally.. I'd test fuel pressure. Even an autozone/Advance may be able to test it for you. Testing is quick and easy. Then you can rule things out.
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:17 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Personally.. I'd test fuel pressure. Even an autozone/Advance may be able to test it for you. Testing is quick and easy. Then you can rule things out.
Agreed. And it'* the closest thing to free to test.
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Old 11-16-2005, 05:54 PM   #17
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fuel and spark, thats what you test first, in either order.
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Old 11-21-2005, 12:25 AM   #18
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I checked the car yesterday and found that a coil (cylinder # 4) was burnt/corroded.

I took the ICM and coils to be tested. The ICM tested fine @ Advance Auto & AutoZone (both places got the ICM hot while testing). However, both places didn't have an Ohms meter to test the coils.

Does a burnt/corroded coil warrants replacment? And if so, should I go with (GP Sorsen or MSD) and why?

I was also told if I go with MSD (or any other high performance coil) I would need to replace the ICM as well. Is this true?

-TuType
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Old 11-21-2005, 09:24 AM   #19
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From the hip..I think you can change the coils only w/o fear and that many have had ICM'* tested successfully while the ICM was actually bad.
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Old 12-04-2005, 07:33 PM   #20
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Willwren,
Here are the MSD coil numbers:
Your cars:

95 Stock Coils: 1st = 6.4; 2nd = 6.43 & 3rd = 6.3

93 MSD Coils: 1st = 3.06; 2nd = 3.4 & 3rd = 3.0

My Car (97 Bonne SSEi w/L67):

Stock Coils: 1st = unsteady reading 2nd = 5.57 & 3rd = 5.71

NEW MSD'*: 1st = 6.21; 2nd = 7.46 & 3rd = 7.64.

Thanks again Willwren,

-TuType[/b]
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