Won't start when hot...
#11
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I would by all means first definately look at the crank sensor. The crank sensor is like $30 from autozone, and fairly easy to install yourself with the right tools. If you had a bad ignition module I would act up all the time, and would cause the car to die once it initinally warmed up. I would rule the ignition module out. If you had a bad coolant temp sensor the check engine light would come on, and the computer would run in an open loop mode for this sensor. Check your crank sensor. The cold water trick sounds like it may work!
#13
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Billboost37:
No check engine light on and there are no codes.
Willwren:
My pcm is located under the hood in the same spot as the Bonne’* original position, however it not in the air-filter housing (out in the open on the fender). The VAT system bypass is under the dash.
* Where is the “crank sensor” located and what tools do I need to replace it? *
Plugs and wires were changed about a year ago, and I don’t drive her in the Winter, so I doubt those would be the problem.
I think I will start with the crank sensor, then the fuel pressure regulator, then the ICM.
No check engine light on and there are no codes.
Willwren:
My pcm is located under the hood in the same spot as the Bonne’* original position, however it not in the air-filter housing (out in the open on the fender). The VAT system bypass is under the dash.
* Where is the “crank sensor” located and what tools do I need to replace it? *
Plugs and wires were changed about a year ago, and I don’t drive her in the Winter, so I doubt those would be the problem.
I think I will start with the crank sensor, then the fuel pressure regulator, then the ICM.
#14
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Location: Bonney Lake/Ellensburg, Washington- WCBF '04, '05, '06, '07 Survivor-
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I bet you it'* your crank sensor. Happend to my car too, sounds just like it. I didn't change it myself so I couldn't help you with changing it....
#15
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Personally.. I'd test fuel pressure. Even an autozone/Advance may be able to test it for you. Testing is quick and easy. Then you can rule things out.
#16
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Personally.. I'd test fuel pressure. Even an autozone/Advance may be able to test it for you. Testing is quick and easy. Then you can rule things out.
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I checked the car yesterday and found that a coil (cylinder # 4) was burnt/corroded.
I took the ICM and coils to be tested. The ICM tested fine @ Advance Auto & AutoZone (both places got the ICM hot while testing). However, both places didn't have an Ohms meter to test the coils.
Does a burnt/corroded coil warrants replacment? And if so, should I go with (GP Sorsen or MSD) and why?
I was also told if I go with MSD (or any other high performance coil) I would need to replace the ICM as well. Is this true?
-TuType
I took the ICM and coils to be tested. The ICM tested fine @ Advance Auto & AutoZone (both places got the ICM hot while testing). However, both places didn't have an Ohms meter to test the coils.
Does a burnt/corroded coil warrants replacment? And if so, should I go with (GP Sorsen or MSD) and why?
I was also told if I go with MSD (or any other high performance coil) I would need to replace the ICM as well. Is this true?
-TuType
#19
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS
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From the hip..I think you can change the coils only w/o fear and that many have had ICM'* tested successfully while the ICM was actually bad.
#20
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Willwren,
Here are the MSD coil numbers:
Your cars:
95 Stock Coils: 1st = 6.4; 2nd = 6.43 & 3rd = 6.3
93 MSD Coils: 1st = 3.06; 2nd = 3.4 & 3rd = 3.0
My Car (97 Bonne SSEi w/L67):
Stock Coils: 1st = unsteady reading 2nd = 5.57 & 3rd = 5.71
NEW MSD'*: 1st = 6.21; 2nd = 7.46 & 3rd = 7.64.
Thanks again Willwren,
-TuType[/b]
Here are the MSD coil numbers:
Your cars:
95 Stock Coils: 1st = 6.4; 2nd = 6.43 & 3rd = 6.3
93 MSD Coils: 1st = 3.06; 2nd = 3.4 & 3rd = 3.0
My Car (97 Bonne SSEi w/L67):
Stock Coils: 1st = unsteady reading 2nd = 5.57 & 3rd = 5.71
NEW MSD'*: 1st = 6.21; 2nd = 7.46 & 3rd = 7.64.
Thanks again Willwren,
-TuType[/b]