1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 08:07 PM
  #11  
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From: Halifax Nova Scotia ASE Master Service Tech
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That is one thing that I have not researched, although there is always a way. Is there anyone else that has had this problem?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a half hour or so and then trying?

How did the dealer know which key to give you? I thought that there were multiple resistor chip options ( I could very well be wrong, I know mine is 1 Mega-ohm).

The problem has to be with the key...

Maybe someone else will pitch in here...
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Old Apr 27, 2004 | 10:12 PM
  #12  
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My dealer made my key from my VIN, I assume they have records or it is encoded in some way....

However the book says:

Bulb on, Engine Starts: Open, Short, Wrong Resistance

Bulb On, Engine Does Not Start: Improper Key Value.

Bulb Flashes, Engine Does Not Start: If it flashes once per second and does not start, the PASS-Key II module sensed an open, short, or otherwise invalid (value matched none of the available 15 key codes) input from the ignition key resistor input. This operation mode could also be caused by malfunctioning power or ground circuits.
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