After taking the vehicle to a tire place for wheel balancing and rotation, still shakes at the speed of 70mph, the steering a little but the rest of the car shakes bad and it comes and goes while at 70mph-cruise controled. Why?

help please... I'm tired taking it to the shop for the 5 time they think they know but they don't, I told them I'm not going to buy anything until it is the problem,,, Usually you pay for all the parts ot the front or back taction and it'* just a strut.

thanx

Check the car for tie rods, steering components and ball joints. When was the last time it was aligned and how many things got hit since?

Or just bring it to a good mechanic ..

did u take it to the tire place all 3 times?
the mechanics in those cheap "shops" usually dont know crap. (i used usually because ive met one who actually knew what he was doing)

my bro took his car to one of them and they put motor oil in his antifreeze, even a 2 year old wouldnt do that, and after they realized there mistake they tried to pretend it didnt happen.

my sister took here car to one of those shops too, and they broke her fan shroud and didnt tell her.

How to detect if it is the tie rods, steering components and ball joints?

How about the struts/ shocks, they've never been changed sice I bought the vehicle, and the two lights are on for the Perfomance ride and Touring ride.

If it is new struts, which ones are the best for the vehicle and made for it as well as the price issue, being low. (not rich)

Thanks guys.

this is a default code telling you that there is a problem you can check the front struts buy having a freind turn the key on and you standing by the stut at the top if you can here the adj spin just a little it'* working and more than likely its in the rear on the leveler ether the pump or the hight sensor or a bad strut

It seems to be the right front caliper, tomorrow I will meet this family mechanic and ask a price for the replacement. Aparently this caliper does not release, it gets pretty hot so it warp the rotor and it makes the shaking, as well when I break. It does shake when I brake, but when I'm at 70mph on cruise control why does it continue to shake on and off? Well the Tire Kingdom Tech. said: the caliper releases and presses on the pad by it self, and it happens thru extreme braking. I decided to take it to someone that can charge less than $328.00 for the whole deal-calipers, cut rotors, pads and labor. I wonder if it is to hard to do. Could I do it?

So tomorrow I will see if that'* the problem.

If you changed out your own sc coupler you can do your own brake job.

Disc brakes are extremely easy to change and fix. If you want an idea, call a local parts store and get prices on both brake calipers, 2 rotors and a nice set of brake pads (lifetime warranty).

You should be sitting down. Whole job of swapping it all will take you probably 2-3 hours being inexperienced and an extra person for a few minutes to help bleed the brakes.

No, this is an indicator that your CCR struts have FAILED. Codes can be retrieved by the procedure in Techinfo, but very likely it'* a strut. Replace them with something other than CCR. http://www.williamwren.com/struts/elc.html will help, particularly with the rears. I seriously doubt the rear leveler (ELC) has anything to do with this problem, as it won't make the car shake, and if it were sagging at the rear, he'd know it.

pads are cermaic Part # CMX7384A $70

Calipers are 31.49 each with a 55.00 core charge part #2422202 and 2422203

rotors are 31.99 each 4886631

all available at my napa store