Im at a loss here. I inspected that lower nipple, and no coolant. The upper connections going to the heater core are dry too.

I took the water pump pulley off and looked at the pump, and it is all dry too.

I am wondering if this leak is even worth it right now... maybe I should just wait until it gets bigger so I can actually see it.

My engine is really dirty, especially the bottom, as the oil pan is leaking like a sieve. Ive put a new gasket in it once and tried to reseal it a second time, and I've just given up on it. However, I am curious about the dye. How well does this work? I put some dye in the AC system a while back and found the compressor covered in yellow some time later. haha. But I didn't know you could do this for coolant? Is it a special formula?

why cant I edit a post?! That is dumb.

I also checked the oil on the dipstick, and it is NOT milky. So the coolant is not making it into the oilpan.

maybe you could clean up the engine and rent a pressure testor

I guess the pressure tester is the next thing to do. Ill post up when I get around to doing that.

Thanks everyone!

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We used this one time to track down a coolant leak we couldn't find for the longest time on a Taurus. Dumped the dye in to the radiator, gave it a while, and then started looking around the engine bay with a UV light at night. The dye fluoresces under UV light, where everything around it remains fairly neutral. The result, the leak lights up like a Christmas tree.

I don't believe that it is leaking quickly enough for a pressure tester to be of any benefit.

And this is all assuming that it is leaking externally. If it is, you should find it, unless it is leaking somewhere you can't see, like the heater core.

Other possibility is that it is leaking internally, which points to Manifold/Manifold Gaskets failing.

I am facing about the same level of coolant consumption, even after the LIM job, and am starting to smell coolant. Rest assured, when I decide to track it down, UV dye is getting dropped in.

I also wonder how quickly water evaporates out of a perfectly functioning system...

Also, a clean engine bay will only work in your favor. Finding the leak, working on the engine, etc.

My money is on the 'O' ring on the coolant elbows. Especially if you used the Dorman elbows when you did the LIM. I had a similar problem a while back. It would not leak when it was at operating temp. It would leak a little when it was cold then stop leaking when it warmed up. I finally diagnosed the problem by using a pressure tester so I could put 12 psi pressure on it when it was cold, and would leak. Testing at operating temp would not work.

I could see how that would work in Gregg'* case. When the rubber seals on the elbows warm up, they expand and seal. When they cool off, the seals contract and open up allowing coolant to leak past.

I had same problem with my 95. I could not find the leak. Only leaked after it sat and cooled. Water pump never looked wet. Replaced water pump and leak stopped. Hope that helps any.

good suggestions guys! Thanks!

I will find that dye and try it.

I used the GM coolant elbow.