When installing felpro head gaskets... - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 08-02-2005, 02:28 PM   #11
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It does not matter which way the hole faces. You can install it in either direction.
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Old 08-02-2005, 04:07 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fatcat
It does not matter which way the hole faces. You can install it in either direction.
Why isn't it on both sides then?
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Old 08-02-2005, 04:34 PM   #13
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I think it'* to get a certain amount of oil flow. Two holes of smaller size would get clogged easier.
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Old 08-02-2005, 06:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
I think it'* to get a certain amount of oil flow. Two holes of smaller size would get clogged easier.
Yeah thats true but i dunno something just bothers me about how the hole is on the one side.
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Old 08-02-2005, 11:34 PM   #15
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95naSTA, I just pulled the lifters on my L36 and there is no "pattern" to which way the hole faces. It may have been disassembled before, but it was a long time ago because EVERYTHING is leaking on this motor. It has 155K on it.

I have removed and reinstalled MANY lifters on these engines and I have never seen a pattern as to which way the hole faces. My best advice is to look for wear patters on the lifter and bore and try to match it back to that. But I think you said you’re using different lifters anyways so you will not be able to do that.

BTW, why are you using different lifters?

And just a thought, maybe installing the lifters in the opposite ware pattern would yield more life from the lifter-to-bore clearance?
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Old 08-03-2005, 12:32 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1fatcat
BTW, why are you using different lifters?
I figured while i have everything apart i might as well put in some low mile lifters. Mine are pretty noisy right now. I got a set or low mile L32 lifters off Ed Morad for pretty cheap. I'm going to soak the crap out of them in oil for like a day before they go back in too.

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And just a thought, maybe installing the lifters in the opposite ware pattern would yield more life from the lifter-to-bore clearance?
I see what your saying. I'll take a good hard look at the lifter valley for any differences.
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Old 08-03-2005, 01:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
*looks over* Hole is the pushrod end.
Woah. I don't even know what the heck I was looking at... Just disregard that.
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Old 08-03-2005, 01:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
Quote:
Originally Posted by Damemorder
*looks over* Hole is the pushrod end.
Woah. I don't even know what the heck I was looking at... Just disregard that.
it'* all good.
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Old 08-08-2005, 07:37 PM   #19
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So to day i bought:
- oil & filter
- brake clean
- a gasket scraper
- High temp RTV (for corners of the LIM gasket)
And i already have my newer lifters soaking in oil.
All of my gaskets/bolts are scheduled to arrive on wednesday.
Should I permatex my new headgaskets? What does everyone think about that?
As for the head & block prep,
Is a sanding block with a red scotchbrite pad going to be enough or should i get some 600 grit sandpaper?
Anything else??
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Old 08-08-2005, 10:05 PM   #20
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Unless the gasket manufacturer states otherwise, don't put anything on the headgaskets. They need to be installed dry.

As for prepping the block, you should run a tap or thread chaser down every headbolt hole then blow the matterial out with compressed air and try to catch it with a rag. This will ensure clean threads and give you a much more accurate torque reading.

Sanding the block? I don't know. You need to be very carefull of the grit that will fall off the sandpaper and into the cooling jackets, lifter valley and cylinder bores. This grit is very abrasive and can cause premature engine damage. Unless the block is out of the car and bare so it can be cooked afterwards, I wouldn't recommend sanding it.

A corse wire brush like the one on the left and a drill work pretty good. Just be sure to check the deck and head flatness with a feeler guage and straight edge when your done cleaning them.

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