Head gaskets and all intake gaskets - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 02-04-2006, 12:13 AM   #1
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Default Head gaskets and all intake gaskets

I have a '92 SE with 260700 miles on it i am about to do my head gaskets and all intake gaskets. I am also doing my timing cover and my oil pan gaskets. I have to put a new camsensor inturupter in, and rebuild the oil pump. So i am doing a lot. i was just wondering if any one has any comments to help me in my adventure or any suggestions to look for while i have the engine out and apart. Thank you!
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Old 02-04-2006, 01:32 AM   #2
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'92. Is it a non-egr engine? That'* the one with the aluminum intake manifold. If it is just give the exhaust valves a look over for burning, those engines are known for that. Otherwise just make sure you get everything super clean and torqued down correctly.
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Old 02-05-2006, 05:41 PM   #3
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thinking of doing the whole engine now from the cylindre heads to the bottom end.
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Old 02-05-2006, 06:29 PM   #4
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Definitely replace the seals at both ends of the crankshaft. The timing cover carries the front one, and a special rear carrier holds the one on the flywheel end. While the engine is out of the car, consider replacing the front (pump) seal on the transmission as well, if that wasn't changed with the rebuild. The rear crank seal and trans pump seal can only be serviced when the engine and transmission are separated.

Unless it has been done recently, replace the water pump and change the plastic coolant elbow (carries coolant between the lower intake manifold and the tensioner casting) for a metal one.

Carefully examine the motor mounts to see if they need to be changed. At that mileage, since you will have the cover off anyway, consider new timing gears and chain.
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Old 02-05-2006, 08:51 PM   #5
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ya every part of the transmission was replaced in the rebuild. my transmission mount on the rear drivers side is blown out totally but still hold well cause i riped the metal mount on the transmission out of the rubber i might replace it now but only if i can fit it in to my budget. if i can find a good place to do it i might get the heads all done. but i am not sure how it is going to look yet so i'll just have to see. i might post pics if i can get any good ones. if i can work slow enough i might get a lot of pics. i am driving a 89 sunbird sedan with the 2.0 liter it does n't have over drive or a turbo that would be fun if it had a manual with the turbo but it is a clean car low miles and very little rust and it is mostly just a litte surface rust i can take off.
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Old 02-05-2006, 09:12 PM   #6
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Your considering doing the whole engine?

If so you might just as well get an entire rebuild kit... You may just want to go ahead and have the block cleaned and inspected as well as honed if not bored out .20 or so over...

Then you have the crank, chances are that you will turn it down .005 - .010 under and get oversized bearings with the rebuild kit.. as well you can take the Valve stem seals from the rebuild kit and have the machine shop go through the heads for you to make sure they are up tp par so you will not have any problems in the future...

There are a series of things that should be done if you are going to rebuild the engine...

as for the oil pump I'm not sure if I'd be tempted to rebuild it or just replace the front timming cover pump included...

At that point it may be cheaper to get a reman engine with a 24000 or 36000 mile warranty.. Lokk into your options and how much you want to spend as well as the amount of work you wan t to put into it... Good Luck

Anyone else have any thoughts here?

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Old 02-06-2006, 01:17 AM   #7
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Rebuilding engines gets into a lot of money very quickly. Long block is one option, but unless the body and interior are in mint condition, it is doubtful if the investment is as good an option as simply buying a lower mileage replacement vehicle.

A lower cost option is to buy a low mileage engine from a salvage yard. Should be able to find a decent one for $500. You can then replace the intake gaskets, shaft seals and water pump on that one before installing. Makes a lot more sense economically.
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Old 02-06-2006, 01:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
Rebuilding engines gets into a lot of money very quickly. Long block is one option, but unless the body and interior are in mint condition, it is doubtful if the investment is as good an option as simply buying a lower mileage replacement vehicle.

A lower cost option is to buy a low mileage engine from a salvage yard. Should be able to find a decent one for $500. You can then replace the intake gaskets, shaft seals and water pump on that one before installing. Makes a lot more sense economically.
Agreed... we have found a few Vin L 3800 engines with 60k on them... Car was hit from the rear... Myself and a friend have talked about getting one... If I had more time I sure would... Its hard to beat a U Pull It when you can get that motor for less than $150

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Old 02-06-2006, 06:27 PM   #9
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if i could find a bonnie wreched for the much or a good engine for that much i would jump all over it i am going to spend way more then that if i wan to do everything. i will look around i have a friend with a fresh 3.8 in his shop but i don't know what he is doing with it or how much he wants is the series 1 and 2 block and heads the same or would i have to look for a specific series.
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Old 02-06-2006, 09:11 PM   #10
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Jason..post something to the effect asking the local MI guys to see if they know of anything. Many people in your area..and they know the yard etc...

Down here there'* a few you pull it yards with killer motor deals.
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