What TOOLS/supplies do I need for a brake job? - Page 5 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-01-2009, 05:10 PM   #41
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OK, so I got the pins unscrewed enough to take the calipers off the rotors, but I can't get any of the pins to go all the way through. I drenched it in WD-40 and kept spinning it but it wouldn't move a touch. Is there supposed to be a ton of resistance or are they supposed to be able to slide right through? I would think the fact that it'* cold out would be to my advantage here....

Oh and there was nothing left on any of the pads.
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Old 03-01-2009, 05:13 PM   #42
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The pin should slide. This allows the caliper to float and keeps the pads wearing evenly. There should be rubber boots on the ends, if these are damaged the pins can rust and then stick.
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Old 03-01-2009, 06:11 PM   #43
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Quote:
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The pin should slide. This allows the caliper to float and keeps the pads wearing evenly. There should be rubber boots on the ends, if these are damaged the pins can rust and then stick.

The boots look decent enough. Either way there'* no sliding going on. I'm not sure if it would be effective or advisable to use heat on this. With none of the four pins sliding freely, I should probably just replace the calipers. They're only like $50. I have limited experience bleeding brakes but I don't remember it being easy.
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Old 03-01-2009, 08:19 PM   #44
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Might be for the best, I don't like to take chances with brakes. Bleeding brakes is easy with a helper. Otherwise there are brake bleeders, I think they are like $25 or so at auto parts shops.
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:00 PM   #45
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Might be for the best, I don't like to take chances with brakes. Bleeding brakes is easy with a helper. Otherwise there are brake bleeders, I think they are like $25 or so at auto parts shops.


I was the pedal man in a brake job once and nothing really got done until we got a hold of a brake bleeder. I don't know if it was him or me. The rubber boot was also missing from the driver'* side bleeder valve and both sides' valves were rusty so that makes the decision easier. Do most people bleed all four every time? Thanks for the help so far, it'* really made this go a lot easier.
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:05 PM   #46
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If your only changing the front calipers, there'* no real reason to bleed the rear. Just make sure the peddle is firm.
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:28 PM   #47
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If your only changing the front calipers, there'* no real reason to bleed the rear. Just make sure the peddle is firm.

I don't know what a firm pedal feels like in a GM vehicle

So the brake hoses use a metric fitting?
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:32 PM   #48
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If it doesn't go to the floor, it'* firm. You should press it down and should stay there.

Yes, everything should be metric
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Old 03-04-2009, 07:49 PM   #49
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What size is the bolt holding the hose to the caliper? This part if my explanation sucks:




11mm is way too big, 10mm might but I don't want to strip it trying to get it on there.
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Old 03-05-2009, 07:57 PM   #50
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Okay I managed to get the pins through and I'm putting new pads on. The clip for the inboard pads is way too wide to get them through the piston. I actually broke one of the clips while trying to bend it. Am I supposed to just put the inboard pad halfway in, and let the caliper piston do the rest when I hit the brakes?
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